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2001 Stories by Robb Walsh

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  • The Way We Were

    published December 27, 2001

    The striking, high-ceilinged dining room of Dong Ting has held a special mystery for Houston diners over the years. The mirrored columns... More >>

  • Gen Xmas

    published December 20, 2001

    The tan and blistered bread balloon doesn't fit on the plate very well. Bigger than a football, it has a weird, formerly animate quality -- like a... More >>

  • Who Stollen Christmas?

    published December 20, 2001

    Joe Mannke is a restaurant legend. Born in Germany, he served as an apprentice in the kitchen of the best hotel in Munich at age 14, then set off... More >>

  • Under $5

    published December 13, 2001

    "Under $25" is the title of Eric Asimov's column about inexpensive restaurants in The New York Times. I have often mused that if we wanted... More >>

  • Panettone in a Pear Tree

    published December 13, 2001

    Carlo Molinaro was born in Verona and grew up in Milano. He has been the chef and owner of La Trattoria restaurant (6504 Westheimer,... More >>

  • Pasta Perfect

    published December 6, 2001

    Fabio Molano is talking on the phone. It's a pretty animated conversation, and he's speaking Spanish. Paul Galvani and I are sitting at the little... More >>

  • Blind Drunk

    published November 29, 2001

    Freixenet Cordon Negro is cheap. You could buy three of the familiar black bottles for less than what you'd pay for an inexpensive French... More >>

  • The Bambi Syndrome

    published November 22, 2001

    The medium-rare Axis venison medallions, hearty wild boar and grilled quail are set off perfectly by an earthy mushroom sauce and tart cranberry... More >>

  • Six Flags over China

    published November 15, 2001

    A fierce clay warrior stands guard over a grand piano in the foyer of Qin Dynasty restaurant. The statue is a replica of a terra-cotta... More >>

  • Odd Couple

    published November 8, 2001

    Six fried chicken wings encircle the round "Belgian" waffle dusted with powdered sugar. The Breakfast Klub's chicken is hot and crusty, and... More >>

  • Walker, Texas Ranger

    published November 8, 2001

    Brennan's of Houston serves Texas Creole cuisine, but head chef Carl Walker didn't grow up in Texas or Louisiana. He was a Missouri farm... More >>

  • Fish Fraud

    published November 1, 2001

    Today's fish special is red snapper Cancun, says the waitress at Tortuga Coastal Cantina. The moderately priced Tex-Mex restaurant on Kirby is... More >>

  • Cafe sans Society

    published November 1, 2001

    A man in a gray sleeveless T-shirt and striped shorts carries a plastic basket full of neatly folded laundry down the sidewalk in front of my... More >>

  • Patriotic Excess

    published October 25, 2001

    Where were you when the president warned us that terrorists were trying to keep us from shopping? I am proud to say that I was drinking a slushy... More >>

  • Discomfort Food

    published October 25, 2001

    Nobody wants to admit it, but the Houston restaurant business is showing signs of a downturn. The real question is how long will it last, and what... More >>

  • Kirby Kong

    published October 18, 2001

    The golden spot sand bass is fried in a crunchy batter with its side fins sticking straight out like wings. Perched on the platter of spicy tomato... More >>

  • Dude, Where's My Car?

    published October 18, 2001

    In past years, a life-size race car made out of chocolate graced the lobby of the Houston Hyatt Regency Hotel during Texaco Grand Prix weekend.... More >>

  • Chicken Run

    published October 11, 2001

    Sitting at a long, shiny stainless-steel table outside Frenchy's Chicken, my daughter Julia and I juggle three pieces of too-hot-to-eat... More >>

  • American Kobe

    published October 4, 2001

    The baseball-sized filet mignon is so streaked with fat, it looks like it's been painted with white stripes. It sits in the middle of the platter,... More >>

  • For a Good Time, Call…

    published September 27, 2001

    "You'll never believe what just happened while I was in the bathroom," Sonia says when she comes back to the table. She seems a little miffed. We... More >>

  • Desperately Seeking Sandwiches

    published September 20, 2001

    The glass is tinted dark, and the paint above the window is peeling. The Thiem Hung Vietnamese sandwich shop looks pretty shabby from the... More >>

  • Dominic Quijano

    published September 20, 2001

    Franchisee Dominic Quijano and wife Nelly invented that icon of America's Hispanicization, the McDonald's breakfast burrito, under the golden... More >>

  • Postmodern Punjabi

    published September 13, 2001

    A large painting on the wall at Restaurant Indika depicts Indian musicians with sitars and tablas in an anachronistic cubist style. You... More >>

  • Blue Crab Standard Time

    published September 6, 2001

    The sun is getting ready to plunge into East Galveston Bay. The slanting light casts a pink glow on the platter of barbecued crabs in front of me.... More >>

  • Getting Stomped

    published August 30, 2001

    With its sun-washed stone walls, arched windows and domed bell tower, the headquarters of Haak Vineyards & Winery looks like an old Spanish... More >>

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