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2002 Stories by Robb Walsh

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  • Mexican, Straight Up

    published December 26, 2002

    "Rock and roll is like Mexican food. As it improves in quality it stops being what it is," wrote Dave Hickey in The Village Voice in 1975.... More >>

  • The G Spot

    published December 26, 2002

    This New Age-flavored blather cracks me up," wrote former Press staffer Lisa Gray in an e-mail. She attached a recent news release about... More >>

  • Not That Turkey

    published December 19, 2002

    Hot flatbread in one hand, knife in the other, I am poised to attack. But I hesitate, momentarily overwhelmed by the seductive excess before me.... More >>

  • Drink Pink

    published December 12, 2002

    Delicious Mischief is the name of a radio program about food and wine on KRTS 92.1 FM. It's also an apt description of the impish rascality... More >>

  • Mystery Meat

    published December 5, 2002

    The 28-ounce T-bone at Maverick Supper + Whiskey comes with a smear of red chile-flavored butter on top. That's it. No potatoes, no... More >>

  • Tired of Turkey?

    published November 28, 2002

    Bright red and streaked with fat, the large slab of raw meat glistens invitingly. It looks like a quarter-inch-thick slice of raw filet mignon.... More >>

  • Come Fry with Me

    published November 21, 2002

    When you cut into a fried green tomato slice at Valdo's Café, you can't help mopping up some of the overlapping puddles of warm red... More >>

  • The Luck of the Gnocchi

    published November 21, 2002

    Americans are often surprised to learn that a great many South Americans claim Italian ancestry. Over 85 percent of the population of Argentina... More >>

  • Sub Text

    published November 14, 2002

    Ponzo's Original, the cold Italian sub offered at the new Midtown Italian takeout restaurant, comes with hard salami, cotto salami,... More >>

  • Forbidden City Food

    published November 7, 2002

    "Not frozen egg rolls, homemade egg rolls!" the proprietor of Peking Cuisine insists. I must have rolled my eyes a little when he said the... More >>

  • The Nickel Burger

    published October 31, 2002

    The TV is blaring, although the picture is mostly snow. While I wait for my order to be called, I slip into a ripped vinyl chair and stare at the... More >>

  • Doctoring Dinner

    published October 31, 2002

    Doctors are notoriously difficult restaurant patrons, my chef friends tell me. So I wondered how transplanted New York chef Alan Ashkinaze... More >>

  • Buttery Beef on the Rock

    published October 24, 2002

    Each slice of ultra-fatty Kobe beef is about the size of two squares of a big Hershey's chocolate bar. At Azuma, the new Japanese-style... More >>

  • Moscow on the Bayou

    published October 17, 2002

    The voluptuous, dark-haired belly dancer is putting on an astonishing exhibition of muscle control. And I thought wiggling one ear at a time was... More >>

  • Bread Head

    published October 17, 2002

    A veteran of eatZi's, Empire Bakery and the Corner Bakery of Chicago, Michael Zakowski came to Houston six years ago to work at the Galleria... More >>

  • Use Your Noodle

    published October 10, 2002

    They look like noodles, but they taste like fish. So what are they? my dining companion wants to know. He discovered the long, skinny ribbons in... More >>

  • Deconstructing Sandwiches

    published October 3, 2002

    Ms. W removes one of the two fillets of fried catfish before she starts eating her poor boy. I almost choke on my overstuffed roast beef sub.... More >>

  • Dim Sum 101

    published September 26, 2002

    Asian women in dark blue baseball caps and light blue shirts wheel shiny stainless-steel dim sum carts around the enormous upstairs dining room of... More >>

  • Chef Mark Johnston and general manager Soufiane Elaamili, Charley's 517

    published September 26, 2002

    "Back in the '80s, people used to tell me I had the best restaurant downtown," says Clive Berkman, owner of Charley's 517. "I would laugh and... More >>

  • Just Like in Mexico City

    published September 19, 2002

    My steak is covered with cactus. The oval prickly-pear pad has been grilled and cut partway through with long slits to make it easier to eat. It... More >>

  • The Eel Thing

    published September 12, 2002

    Chef Tatsumi Toda's secret unagi recipe involves a slow-cooked, sweetened black sake and soy sauce, but that's all I can get out of him.... More >>

  • Madonna Eats Here?

    published September 12, 2002

    A quirky Vietnamese restaurant called Jenni's Noodle House (2130 Jefferson, 713-228-3400) opened in May of last year in the old Chinatown... More >>

  • Where's Chango?

    published September 5, 2002

    "They could turn it into a game, like Where's Waldo?" Ms. W suggests as she sips her margarita. "See how many monkeys you can find. Kids would... More >>

  • Peking Order

    published August 29, 2002

    Chef Jian Gang Liu of Golden Duck restaurant humbly displays our freshly roasted Peking duck as he prepares to slice it tableside. There is... More >>

  • How Do You Take It?

    published August 8, 2002

    There's an awful lot of cellophane wrapped around the banana nut muffin I just bought at the Bright & Early Coffee drive-through stand at... More >>

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