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2002 Stories by Robb Walsh

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  • Roll Your Own

    published August 1, 2002

    "Lunch Specials from $2.95," reads the lettering near the door of Saigon Pagolac. As promised, the little lunch menu is loaded with... More >>

  • The Great White Pizza

    published July 25, 2002

    Kamal Alnasleh throws another log on the fire. The owner and head chef of La Barmigiana is preparing the melanzane pizza I ordered.... More >>

  • That Sneaky Tex-Mex Camel

    published July 25, 2002

    The head chef at the hottest new restaurant in the city tells an immigrant's rags-to-riches story. Hugo Ortega grew up in Mexico City and... More >>

  • Dog Days

    published July 18, 2002

    As I bite into the Chicago-style dog at James Coney Island, the natural casing on the all-beef frank squeaks and pops, the sport pepper... More >>

  • When Jeffrey Met Thelma

    published July 11, 2002

    The brisket at Thelma's Bar-B-Que on Live Oak has a tasty black char on the top, but the inside is slick with juice and as tender as the... More >>

  • Gooooaaaal!

    published July 4, 2002

    I'm staring at my plate in anticipation. There's a short tower of rice, a stack of shredded collard greens, a mound of toasted crumbs, and all the... More >>

  • The Durian Dare

    published June 27, 2002

    The waitress puts a Heineken and a tall pilsner glass full of ice in front of me, and I pour the beer over the rocks. My brother Scott rolls his... More >>

  • Hotter than Halal

    published June 20, 2002

    K.C. Perez, the proprietor and head waiter of the Spicy Foods Halal-Chinese restaurant on Hillcroft, is a stout Pakistani who looks a lot... More >>

  • The Barbecue Ward

    published June 13, 2002

    Two-meat plate: $8 Three-meat plate: $10 Veal by the pound: $10.50 Links by the pound: $11.25 Mixed pound (any two): $11.50 More >>

  • Dharma and John

    published June 6, 2002

    The guy with the not-so-recently shaved head, the little round designer glasses and the blue oxford shirt must have surveyed the patio of... More >>

  • Okra Worship

    published May 30, 2002

    The fried plantain slices at Fusion Café are laid out like the spokes of a wheel, with a colorful tropical salsa at the hub. The... More >>

  • There's Something About Larry's

    published May 23, 2002

    Larry's Deluxe Dinner: $8.25 Larry's Special Dinner: $7.25 Cheese enchiladas (three): $5.25 Chile con queso (small): $2.25 More >>

  • Midtown's New Attitude

    published May 16, 2002

    The little black tablecloths and the giant red lipstick columns make my heart beat faster every time I walk into Blowfish. The high... More >>

  • Planet Hemingway

    published May 9, 2002

    Floridita's double daiquiri is heavy, the glass frost-rimmed. I gaze into the liquid greenness just below the frapped top, and it reminds... More >>

  • Albino Asparagus

    published May 9, 2002

    White asparagus is a national obsession in Germany this time of year. Many restaurants there offer special dinner menus with asparagus in every... More >>

  • Duck Soup

    published May 2, 2002

    We're heaping spoonfuls of tuna tartare onto slices of baguette like a sushi spread and washing it down with crisp Roederer Estate sparkling wine.... More >>

  • Asian Cajuns

    published April 25, 2002

    While I'm waiting for a couple of pounds of boiled crawfish at Cajun Corner restaurant, I notice a young Vietnamese-American guy approach... More >>

  • Short Courtship

    published April 18, 2002

    Wearing a white guayabera shirt and black pants, our waitress delivers a menu decorated with a photo of Desi Arnaz talking on the phone while Lucy... More >>

  • Continental Error-lines

    published April 18, 2002

    Aries was the critics' choice for top restaurant in the Press's 2001 Best of Houston issue, so we take a special interest in what... More >>

  • Keep On Shuckin'

    published April 11, 2002

    They put a couple of ice cubes on top of each raw oyster at Gilhooley's to keep it cold. I push the ice aside and squeeze a few drops of... More >>

  • Paris Matched

    published April 4, 2002

    David Garrido hacks off a huge piece of steak and then uses the already loaded fork to stab a few crispy french fries. The Austin chef is an old... More >>

  • Thai Raid

    published March 28, 2002

    Bangkok hot beef salad is a nest of lettuce topped with sizzling beef in a hot and tangy lemongrass sauce, says the menu at Blue Orchid.... More >>

  • Houston, One Plate at a Time

    published March 21, 2002

    "Look at that!" Rick Bayless says in amazement. "Geez, I wish I had my camera!" The trilingual sign he's pointing to, on a breakfast joint at the... More >>

  • Pierogi Paradise

    published March 14, 2002

    Franek tilts back his head and closes his eyes as he chews another ruskie pierogi. His beard is glistening with grease, and the hint of a smile... More >>

  • Grits Just Wanna Have Fun

    published March 14, 2002

    Olivette, the posh restaurant at The Houstonian Hotel, serves chilaquiles that look an awful lot like migas, we all agree. Bill and Cheryl... More >>

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