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2003 Stories by Robb Walsh

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  • All-You-Can-Eat Bait

    published July 17, 2003

    There are 40 kinds of sushi on display at Todai, the upscale Japanese seafood buffet restaurant in the Marq*E Entertainment Center on the... More >>

  • Upscale Hospital Food

    published July 10, 2003

    The waterfall has been broken for months. It used to flow over a glass wall in the lobby of Trevísio, the huge and lavish restaurant... More >>

  • The In-Tycer

    published July 10, 2003

    Among the smiling faces on the cover of July's Food & Wine magazine is Houston's Scott Tycer, executive chef and owner of Aries restaurant.... More >>

  • Summer Breakfast Strategy

    published July 3, 2003

    It's 6:30 a.m., and the breakfast shift at Frank's Grill on Telephone Road has already been at it for an hour and a half. The head chef is... More >>

  • Forgiving Fertitta

    published June 26, 2003

    The martini is icy, the club chair is plush, Frank Sinatra is crooning on the sound system, and on the flat-screen TV the Astros are slaughtering... More >>

  • Jammin' Jellyfish

    published June 19, 2003

    First, you squeeze the lemon into the saucer that contains the salt, pepper and preserved plum powder. Then you snatch up a hot square of fried... More >>

  • 1 Fish, 2 Fish, Red Fish...

    published June 12, 2003

    If the rolled-up tuna were a hot dog bun, then the asparagus would be a foot-long wiener sticking out of it at both ends. The odd-shaped creation... More >>

  • Le Fracas Français

    published June 5, 2003

    Domaine de Mourchon is a Côtes du Rhône village red with an inky color and the sort of concentrated fruit and intense flavor you'd... More >>

  • The War with Chirac

    published May 29, 2003

    The coarse-ground pork pâté looks like meat loaf studded with walnuts. We eat chunks of it on hot crisp bread that's fresh out of the... More >>

  • Food Art

    published May 22, 2003

    Soft-shell crawfish taquitos $8 Churrasco$26 Salmon$18 Lunch shrimp$12 Lunch chicken$10 More >>

  • Chipotle off the Old Block

    published May 15, 2003

    Just like the old-fashioned Tex-Mex version, Serranos' cheese enchiladas are crispy on the ends and covered with chile gravy. But unlike... More >>

  • Ice Cream Sandwich

    published May 8, 2003

    "Which flavor do you want to try?" asks the manager of the Nundini deli on North Shepherd in the Heights. He's standing behind ten colorful... More >>

  • Barbecue in Black and White

    published May 1, 2003

    Cowgirls are taking turns climbing onto the stage and turning around to display their denim-clad derrieres to the audience. It's the Miss Blue... More >>

  • A Dozen Brisket Sandwiches

    published May 1, 2003

    First, a little advice: Black East Texas barbecue is heavy on the sauce -- ask for yours on the side if you aren't going to eat it right away.... More >>

  • Bigger and Battered

    published May 1, 2003

    Nine fried jumbo shrimp: $7.99 Eight grilled shrimp: $7.99 Fried catfish and six shrimp: $8.99 Six fried oysters: $5.99 Pint of... More >>

  • Wednesday Brunch

    published April 24, 2003

    Xiu mai (four): $2.65 Shrimp dumplings (four): $2.65 Turnip pudding: $1.95 Squab and lettuce leaves: $12.95 Lunch special:... More >>

  • Wall of Flavor

    published April 17, 2003

    Goat korma masala: $7.50 Chicken biryani: $8 Palak paneer: $4.50 Shrimp masala: $9 Bhunna gosht: $7.50 Alo palak:... More >>

  • Wet Noodle

    published April 10, 2003

    Veal piccata: $14.95 Lasagna: $8.95 Spaghetti and meatballs: $8.95 Fettuccine Alfredo: $9.95 Chicken Marsala:... More >>

  • Grape Escape

    published April 10, 2003

    There are only 56 master sommeliers in the United States. At 30 years of age, Paul Roberts is one of the youngest. Unfortunately for Houston,... More >>

  • Bibim Bap's Rap

    published April 3, 2003

    Bibim bap: $7.95 Stone bowl bibim bap: $9.95 Bulgogi: $10.95 Boneless ribs: $12.95 Seafood pancake: $10.95 Family-style... More >>

  • Chuck E.-nese Cuisine

    published March 27, 2003

    Taiko Oyster tempura roll: $15.95 House Sapporo steak: $28 Yaki udon: $9 Hibachi shrimp: $18.95 Hibachi scallops: $18.45 More >>

  • Dinner and Darts

    published March 20, 2003

    When we first enter The Rivendell Bar & Grille, we walk by two women who are talking intently on a big sofa by the front door. One has her... More >>

  • Can to Mouth

    published March 13, 2003

    Dominique's Vichyssoise ($2.29) seemed like the perfect way to start a civilized meal. You're supposed to eat the French potato-and-leek soup... More >>

  • Katy Pie

    published March 13, 2003

    Roma tomatoes sliced thin lengthwise, a smattering of fresh basil leaves and a little garlic over olive oil -- these are the only toppings on the... More >>

  • Whirled Cuisine

    published March 6, 2003

    A half-pound of medium-rare Black Angus hamburger meat smothered in melting Gorgonzola and topped with a pile of wispy batter-fried onions sits... More >>

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