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2004 Stories by Robb Walsh

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  • Le Grand Cheesecake

    published December 30, 2004

    The soaring facade of Grand Lux Cafe looks like the outside of one of those pseudo-Italian Las Vegas casinos. As you drive down Westheimer,... More >>

  • Sunday Chaat

    published December 23, 2004

    The host at Annapurna South Indian Cuisine on NASA Road 1 brings some puffy pooris to our table. Served hot out of the oven, the... More >>

  • Risqué, Medium Rare

    published December 16, 2004

    My fork and knife hover over a slice of double-cut New York strip "Pittsburgh." It's the best thing on the menu at the Strip House, the new... More >>

  • The Great Gadsby

    published December 16, 2004

    Robert Gadsby, long considered one of the most creative chefs in Los Angeles, opened his new restaurant, Noé, in the Houston Omni... More >>

  • The Next Chef Boyardee

    published December 9, 2004

    The nine-inch spinach-and-mushroom pizza at Wolfgang Puck Express comes on a thin, crisp crust. Along with the mushroom slices, there's... More >>

  • Grande Plans

    published December 2, 2004

    It's Friday night, and the most fashionable restaurant in Houston is full to capacity. Glowing in his chef's whites, Cafe Annie's head chef and... More >>

  • Eat Mi

    published December 2, 2004

    Tan Tan Tan Tan Mi with wontons$4.95 Mi with barbecued pork$4.95 Mi with shrimp$5.50 Chicken wings$4.95... More >>

  • Landmark Fajitas

    published November 25, 2004

    My dining companion thinks she has ordered Herrera's Mexicatessen's "fajitas bravo," which come with sautéed bacon, onions and... More >>

  • Bordeaux on the Bayou

    published November 25, 2004

    La Tour d'Argent (2011 Ella Boulevard) has reopened, with French chef Cedric Guerin in the kitchen. The restaurant, which first opened in... More >>

  • History Reheats Itself

    published November 18, 2004

    Marine's Empanadas Marine's Empanadas More >>

  • Mussels In

    published November 11, 2004

    New York's culinary bad boy, Anthony Bourdain, will be in Houston soon promoting his latest release, Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles... More >>

  • Dancing Delicacies

    published November 4, 2004

    A large black Mercedes swoops to the curb while I'm trying to hand my keys to the valet in front of Saffron, the new Moroccan restaurant... More >>

  • Fried in the Heights

    published October 28, 2004

    Barbecue Inn Barbecue Inn More >>

  • Odd Timing

    published October 28, 2004

    In the early 1980s, a slender, London-born chef named Bruce Auden came to downtown Houston to cook at a cutting-edge restaurant called... More >>

  • Dumpling Democracy

    published October 21, 2004

    The free-form dumplings at Santong Snacks in Diho Plaza look like meatballs in floppy wrappers. But the spicy pork stays tightly fitted... More >>

  • Steak and Peanut Butter

    published October 14, 2004

    After school, when no one else was home, I used to experiment with new peanut butter sandwich combinations. If peanut butter and bacon tasted... More >>

  • Lafayette's Legacy

    published September 30, 2004

    The crawfish bisque at Denis' Seafood House is as dark as chocolate and spicy as hell. Crawfish tails and hush-puppy dumplings hide in its... More >>

  • Meatball Politics

    published September 23, 2004

    Frank Mancuso demonstrates his bib technique as we shuffle along with all the other people in line for lunch at Whitney Oaks Hall. The giant... More >>

  • Osso Buco Me? Osso Buco You!

    published September 16, 2004

    "If you don't like it, there's the door. Pay your bill and go. And don't come back," says Alex Salmassi, the owner of Portofino Ristorante... More >>

  • Boring by Design

    published September 9, 2004

    Cowboy rib eye: $39.95 Eight-ounce filet$27.95 Veal chop$27.95 Baked potato$5.95 Caesar salad$6.95 More >>

  • Fruits of Franchising

    published September 2, 2004

    When the heat index goes above 106 in Houston, you can't eat a cheeseburger for lunch unless you have time for a siesta. That's why salads and... More >>

  • Transcendent Tacos

    published August 26, 2004

    All tacos 99 cents Cheese enchiladas $2.99 Three tamales with rice and beans $4.95 More >>

  • Sushi Pudding

    published August 19, 2004

    Shaved salmon marinated with coconut lime juice, chili tapioca and Asian pear" is an appetizer on the menu at the elegant Bank Jean-Georges... More >>

  • The Pushers

    published August 19, 2004

    When I ate dinner at Bank Jean-Georges with my daughter, the waiter asked if we wanted fizzy, still or "Houston" water. I asked for the Houston.... More >>

  • Marinara Monopoly

    published August 12, 2004

    We're seated near a wall of glass that looks out onto a dense stand of pine trees. The rain has left a fog on the windows, so the greenery is soft... More >>

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