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2009 Stories by Robb Walsh

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  • Loaves and Fishes

    published July 23, 2009

    There was a fried mojarra on display on the front counter as we walked in the door of Taquería Jesus Maria on Spencer... More >>

  • Creole Rabbit

    published July 2, 2009

    The paneed rabbit appetizer at ­Sabine River Cafe looked like a plate of McNuggets, but the white meat was sweeter and lighter... More >>

  • Brooklyn Gumbo

    published June 25, 2009

    The giant sea scallops at Jonathan's The Rub were lightly dusted with an herb and pepper rub and seared so that they were opaque on the... More >>

  • Hollister Hospitality

    published June 18, 2009

    The crab cake Benedict on the Sunday brunch menu at Hollister Grill is my new favorite version of the old-fashioned egg dish. It starts off... More >>

  • Not So Clear Cut

    published June 18, 2009

    The front end of a cow carcass was dangling from the ceiling. With a butcher's hook and a boning knife in my hands, I regarded the bright-red... More >>

  • The New Bistro Steaks and Fajitas

    published June 18, 2009

    Here are some of the newly popular cuts of beef you might find in the grocery store meat case. We grill them and eat them fajita-style in... More >>

  • Big Flavors, Little Tables

    published June 11, 2009

    Maybe the tender braised baby octopus in a light brown sauce with cannellini beans and carrot chunks was my favorite dish at Poscol. I had... More >>

  • Crawfish Season's Tail End

    published June 4, 2009

    Seafood dealer Jim Gossen sat in the booth across from me at Boiling Crab. It was the first time I had ever seen him with tears in his... More >>

  • Samurai Gaúchos

    published May 28, 2009

    Cupim is an unusual cut of beef that's highly prized in Brazil. It comes from the hump of Brahma crossbred cattle, and it's reportedly... More >>

  • Shanghainese, If You Please

    published May 21, 2009

    "Pork with preserved vegetables" sounds boring. But Jay Francis kept tapping on this item on the menu at Shanghai Cuisine and insisting... More >>

  • Pork and Beans on a Bun

    published May 14, 2009

    The steak, onion and raw jalapeño sandwich called the "Pepito" at Tortas El Angel in the Heights was my unexpected favorite. The... More >>

  • Roast Beef and Fried Rice

    published April 23, 2009

    "Nobody in Houston knows how to make a roast beef poor boy," displaced Crescent City  native Tim Turner said to me the other day. Turner's... More >>

  • Flea Market French

    published April 16, 2009

    The duck confit salad I had for lunch at La Brocante Cafe on Kirkwood was a plate with three items. There were lightly dressed field... More >>

  • Island Grinds

    published April 9, 2009

    The Spam musubi at Little Island Grill on Westheimer looked strange. There was so much nori wrapped around the outside of... More >>

  • Tex-Cajun Cuisine at BB's Cajun Cafe

    published April 2, 2009

    "It's all about the gravy," New Orleans food writer Pableaux Johnson observed as he sopped up huge mouthfuls of the stuff. He passed the bowl over... More >>

  • Jang Guem Tofu & BBQ House

    published March 26, 2009

    There were so many stone bowls on our table, it looked like we were eating with the Flintstones. At Jang Guem Tofu & BBQ, the signature... More >>

  • Trainsmash and Bobotie at Out of Africa

    published March 5, 2009

    Pap with trainsmash is a South African dish I encountered on the Sunday brunch buffet line at Out of Africa in Sugar Land. The pap was a... More >>

  • Pizza Like Patsy Used to Make at Grimaldi's

    published February 26, 2009

    The crispy, thin-crusted pizza at Grimaldi's in Sugar Land is covered with bright-white fresh mozzarella and zesty red sauce and baked in a... More >>

  • Flavors of the Fifth at Davis Meat Market and Burt's Meat Market

    published February 19, 2009

    There were enough falling-apart-­tender beef tips in thick brown gravy over rice in the Styrofoam container to feed a medium-sized family. Jim... More >>

  • The Valentine's Day Minefield at Central Market

    published February 12, 2009

    The USDA Prime tenderloin was perfectly grilled and slathered in garlicky chimichurri, just the way my significant other likes it. The... More >>

  • Oyster Lovers Unite

    published February 12, 2009

    Nearly four inches long, the "Sand Dune" oyster from Prince Edward Island was so plump, it was bulging out of its shell "like a large breast in... More >>

  • Oyster Lovers Unite: Oyster Species Guide

    published February 12, 2009

    There are five species of oysters eaten in the Western world. Crassostrea virginica (C. virginica) Common names:... More >>

  • Oyster Lovers Unite: Five Places to Eat Oysters This Valentine's Weekend

    published February 12, 2009

    Joyce's Seafood & Steaks 6415 San Felipe, 713-975-9902 Formerly known as Joyce's Oyster Resort, this blue and turquoise... More >>

  • Houston Sushi's Polar Opposites: Soma & Oishii Sushi

    published February 5, 2009

    As the name suggests, the "Crazy Irishman" roll at Soma on Washington is not one of those restrained-looking creations composed by a... More >>

  • Malt Shop Burger at Cheeburger Cheeburger

    published January 29, 2009

    The name comes from this Saturday Night Live routine about a diner where they said, 'No Coke, Pepsi' all the time, and that's why we have... More >>

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