Houston's west side has long deserved a noteworthy sushi spot, and now it finally has one. Diners should angle for seats at the sushi bar for a bird's-eye view of chef Adison Lee and his staff diligently forming perfectly textured sushi rice into neat blocks and topping them with some of the best fish and meats to be found in the city. Lee trained under world-acclaimed master Nobu Matsuhisa and that experience has now been honed to a sharp focus. Searing of foie gras is perfectly timed to melt into the rice and on the tongue. Fish is sliced to capitalize perfectly on the most tender layers, even a bit on the surface to ensure it wraps around the rice just so. Often, a tiny amount of ginger, yuzu or other accoutrement is applied to best showcase the fish's flavor. Go now, before Houston's other sushi aficionados find out what Lee is doing over there and make it hard to get a reservation.
READERS' CHOICE: Uchi