Sitting at the bar in The Pastry War feels like sitting at the table in a Mexican kitchen, with tequila in the turquoise-colored cabinets instead of plates and bowls. Baskets of lemons, limes and oranges line the talavera-tiled countertops. And Day of the Dead figurines and ceramic pottery crowd the end of the bar. Named for the 1838 French war in Mexico that was ignited after a French pastry chef complained that Mexicans looted his shop, The Pastry War specializes in mezcal and tequila, offering a somewhat overwhelming list of agaves. It also serves tamales and chips with queso or salsa — and accepts pesos for payment.