From the looks of all the new drive-thrus dominating roadway vistas, this car-crazy city craves speed -- in food as much as commute times. What's been missing is obvious: variety. Menu boards may have expanded, but the basic choices seem so limited. How many ways can a chicken or cow or codfish be broiled, fried or filleted? Or a taco shell be filled and lettuce pressed into a semi-salad? So salute a drive-thru breakthrough that ought to leave the Bayou City breathless: sushi on the run -- the right kind of California roll-ing. Rather than resorting to the pseudo-pagoda exterior and Asian influences so common with sushi houses, Miyagi Bowl takes a respectful bow to the quaint, neon-accented burger-joint architecture. The clean, well-lit quarters form a tempting invitation to interior dining, but the efficient ordering and pick-up window make the buy-and-bye the best route for motorists. There are menu offerings out the wasabi, with reasonable prices. These include 18 nigiri selections (tuna rolls, $2.20), nine sashimi delights, tempura, hosomaki, maki rolls, teriyaki and ten mixed boxes complete with miso soup. Don't forget the green tea. The Richmond location ought to be easy to remember by association; the cross street is Rice. Compared to the tired competition for cars by other drive-thrus, Miyagi Bowl is eel-on-wheels above the rest.