It should come as no surprise that a Vallone Group restaurant would claim the coveted prize of best service. Tony Vallone, the patriarch of Houston's most elite dining dynasty, has instilled this work ethic in all his progeny, who provide a horde of servers, from captains to busboys, to surround each table, doting on diners with the tender care of a grandmother. The trick, however, is to be at the customer's elbow when needed and to fade into the woodwork when not. At La Griglia, the pace is noticeably frantic at times, yet still accommodating, providing a welcome air of informality. And the willingness to please extends to the kitchen. After a patron pouted over the disappearance of the capellini-encrusted snapper, a line cook appeared at the table to confirm all the ingredients so that he could prepare it to specification. What arrived was even better than the original, crunchy on the outside, scrumptiously gooey on the inside. Come to think of it, you're not likely to get that kind of service from your grandmother.