This hole-in-the-wall Chinese restaurant in a Westheimer strip center has seen better days. The flea-market carving of the Great Wall of China and the other sparse decorations on the walls are almost worse than nothing. You could argue that many other Chinese restaurants have similar, or even better, dumplings. But the Dumpling King's loyal subjects vigorously defend the crown. Their claim to superiority is based on the wide variety; the menu boasts 19 different dumplings, although many of these are just the same ones cooked in different ways. But there is one thing about this place that everybody ends up loving, and that's the do-it-yourself sauce. After you order your dumplings, the waiter brings you a plate and a collection of jars. They contain ginger, garlic, rice wine vinegar, ground chile peppers, soy sauce and sesame oil. With these ingredients, you concoct your own customized dipping sauces, and they're much more exciting than the watery sauces found elsewhere.