Van Pham's Swans Cleaners is one of the few places in town where it's hotter inside than out. That's because there's no separation between the counter and work area. Steam rises constantly from the presses, and some 30 fans tilt quixotically against the heat. Pham's loyal following doesn't mind, though. Besides really good cleaning, they get a laundry bag with their name on it and a dose of Pham's sense of humor. He posts the store temperature on a chalkboard (is it really 108 degrees inside or does he exaggerate a bit?) along with the joke of the day. Some are good, and some are, well, not so good. Lying about the bad ones will get you that coveted laundry bag.