The hot larb salad with lime-juice-drenched ground beef tossed with chopped chiles, scallions, onions, mint and cilantro is electrifying. The drunken noodles -- slick with lime juice, piquant with chiles and aromatic with purple basil -- are spectacular. The milky-looking tom kha gai is a seductively gentle-looking chicken soup that turns devilishly spicy on your palate with blazing chiles and sour lemongrass, lime juice and kaffir-lime accents. This is nothing like the sweet and sticky Americanized Thai food served at most Houston Thai restaurants. This is Thai food the way it tastes in Thailand. But authentic Thai restaurants don't last long in the United States. Almost all of them end up dumbing down the food to please the wimpy mainstream. Do Houston food lovers a favor: If you don't like your Thai food hot and spicy, go somewhere else!