If the prospect of eating another bland box of Chinese-American takeout gives you a moo goo gai panic attack, then here's a fresh idea: real Chinese fast food in the heart of Chinatown. Near the long, spare counter, back-lit photos depict an assortment of dishes that are often vegetable-centric, well spiced and refreshingly free of glop. When the veggie's in season, the chicken with pea shoots -- a light, saucy dish with a hint of ginger -- is superb. The unique "eggplant with fish flavor" comes soft and bathed in chile oil. And the steamed whole tilapia fish with green herbs on top is an ever-popular favorite with the predominately Asian clientele; try it with tofu and a spicy sauce, if you want something heavier. The decor is clean and spare, the tea from a dispenser is free, and the service is brisk. It's a perfect spot for a quick meal, and well worth the drive to get there.