Gravitas earned its reputation as the hippest kitchen in the city by reinterpreting slow-food classics. Chefs Jason Gould and Scott Tycer put an Alpine spin on macaroni and cheese with an item the menu calls housemade German spaetzle baked with Gruy?re. The dish brilliantly combines delicate little noodles with a big full-flavored stinky Swiss cheese. If you're willing to broaden your definition enough to allow spaetzle and Gruy?re to fill in for the elbows and yellow cheese powder that come in the box, you will be richly, richly rewarded. Mac-and-cheese lovers have remarked that they just wanna curl up in a bathtub full of this stuff.