J's Special at The Hill Bar & Grill in Waller is a cheeseburger served on Texas toast. Swapping out a bun for two double-thick slices of toasted white bread sounds like a pretty minor change. But the effect that ­aggressively griddled Texas toast has on this cheeseburger is quite r­emarkable. The burger comes wrapped in ­tissue paper and served in a paper-lined ­basket on a bed of fries. A thick square of melted American cheese bubbles invitingly over the side, sticking the burger, the three slices of tomato, the crinkle-cut pickles and the Texas toast together. The mayo is spread so thick on the bottom a little oozes out. There is a little yellow mustard on the top. The crunch of the slightly greasy Texas toast and the velvety smoothness of the melted ­American cheese contrast wildly with the drippy half pound of juicy ground beef and fixin's. It's like a big handmade Texas burger stuffed inside a giant grilled-cheese sandwich.