This unassuming little restaurant in the shell of an old Long John Silver's has brought excellent pan-Asian food to a neighborhood that was sorely missing it. And the best item on its extensive menu is one of the simplest: steamed pork and vegetable dumplings, hand-filled and hand-crimped in the kitchen by a tiny old lady who seems to do nothing else. As you'd imagine, the resulting dumplings are nothing short of wonderful, easily competing with other favorites at FuFu and QQ Cafe.