Arthur Ave

Arthur Ave seeks to highlight and elevate classic Italian-American fare, lending it an air of sophistication that might feel at odds with its checkered-tablecloth past. While some of these endeavors sparkle and pop, others falter under the weight of their ambition. The re-tuned Caprese makes excellent use of pulled-to-order mozzarella, paring the milky-sweet and creamy cheese against the pop-rocks burst of basil-marinated tomatoes (peeled, for an added bit of subtle luxury) and delicately bitter arugula. It’s a gem of a dish, honoring the spirit of the original while updating and improving it at every turn. Likewise, the finely tuned eggplant parm pays so much attention to so many details that the plate winds up far more than the sum of its parts, and is likely the city’s best example of the dish. At the outer edges lies the crispy lasagna, whose refiguring of the classic might please some and pain others. For our money, it is overly focused on form, allowing the idea to trump reality. It’s an interesting concept, but one that would ring more clearly if it followed more of the rhythms offered by its original inspiration rather than looking for an entirely new beat. While the wine list doesn’t have either the focus or the panache of the one at sister restaurant Helen Greek Food and Wine, the cocktail menu makes up for it with charm and taste. In particular, the Ace High rings clear, bolstering a brace of herbal and bitter components with bright lemon and a fruity Lambrusco float. Expect the place to be noisy, the service friendly but slow.