If they quell an urge to overgrill and oversalt, this handsome cafe could become an upscale Mexican staple. Appealing sopes (pizza-style wheels of cornmeal), mashed-on-the-spot guacamole, substantial quesos and rosemary-scented roast chicken are winners. A brooding mural and spiffy crowd add visual interest.
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Man, the lead-up to the holidays has been filled with an odd combination of periods of cooking frenzy, trying to get caught up on some kitchen projects before year's end, and last-minute dinners, wedged into the hustle and bustle of...