Founded in 1989 by the irrepressible Irma Galvan, this authentic Mexican keeps accreting like some whimsical downtown coral reef. The restaurant was recently named an America's Classic by the James Beard Foundation. Head there to savor Galvan's burgeoning decor, politically-wired clientele and ever-changing selection of enormously comforting mom-food: landmark cheese enchiladas, real mole, chiles rellenos and pork ribs in home-style tomatillo sauce. And whatever you do, don't miss Irma's lemonade.