Madras Pavilion Indian Cuisine

Unlike many of Houston's Indian restaurants, Madras Pavilion pays little attention to the cuisine of northern India, focusing instead on what's available in the southern part of the subcontinent -- particularly the South Indian specialty dosai, a crepelike dish made from lentil or rice flour. Madras, with a dozen different types, is a haven for this dish. The best is the ravala masala dosai, with its spicy potato and vegetable filling. Uthappam, a sort of Indian pizza, is also delectable. Desserts, alas, are not.