A perfect platter of freshly shucked gulf oysters on the half shell is served with lime wedges instead of lemons, and the spicy-sweet cocktail sauce hasn't a trace of horseradish. The ceviche is blessedly simple - just seafood soaked in Mexican lime juice and topped with ripe avocado. Favorite dinner plates include the foil-wrapped snapper, grilled over a wood fire, but the best dish is cazuela de mariscos. The soupy concoction is akin to Tex-Mex chili, with rings and tentacles of calamari bobbing with chunks of fish and bay shrimp in a deep red guajillo broth.
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I never visited the original Ostioneria Puerto Vallarta on Lawndale, so I never mourned its passing the way some of my friends do. Apparently the original cafe was small and crowded and funky, steamy with good food smells, and made ...