Refinement is not the deal at this Spartan Pakistani spot; exuberant flavors are. The fainthearted may quail, but draining excess oil from your takeout sag paneer or vegetable du jour pays off in complex seasoning and sneaky heat. The aloo kulcha -- rivetingly spicy, potato-filled flatbread with assertive tamarind sauce -- is one of the city's primo fast-food items.
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