A “hole in the wall” with only 12 tables, Spicy Hunan in the Dun Huang Plaza is a clean, wellappointed restaurant that specializes in the cuisine of the Hunan province. Specialties include steamed fish head with pickled chile sauce as well as smoked pork dishes, such as the smoked pork with leeks. The tilapia with soft tofu and pickled chile sauce and the cauliflower with smoked pork and red chile peppers are standouts. Like most restaurants in Chinatown, Spicy Hunan offers BYOB with no corkage. It does not take reservations, so plan to go early to avoid a wait.
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'Fish heads are a delicacy all over China," said my dinner companion, Tony. Chinese by descent, Tony devoured about two-thirds of our spicy fish head plate, a Hunan specialty, all by himself. "The eyes -- the slimy parts -- they are...