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This restaurant offers a lot of dazzle, featuring a fish tank three and a half stories high, miniature geysers and a gift shop. A spiral staircase wraps around the tank containing 15,000 gallons of clear blue water and hundreds of tropical fish. The hostesses are a hurdle, but the waitstaff is attentive, efficient and professional. Many of the appetizers are generous enough to serve several or to double as an entrée for one. The imaginative lime-grilled chicken lettuce wraps are stuffed with sprouts, sesame noodles and peanuts. Another favorite: the rich, caramel-colored lobster bisque, served in a hubcap-sized dish. Crowds die down after 10 p.m.