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You can feed an army with a whole roasted baby goat or spend a reflective lunch over some enchiladas at El Hidalguense; it's your call at the cozy, family-run restaurant on Long Point that shares strip center space with another Houston Press favorite, Vieng Thai. Either way, you win because the food here is consistently wonderful. The restaurant's twin specialties are barbacoa de borrego estilo Hidalgo, which is Hidalgo-style lamb cooked in maguey leaves, and chivito asado al pastor, whole goat roasted over an open charcoal pit right there in the restaurant. In the evenings, El Hidalguense is filled with expats from Hidalgo and a live mariachi band playing Huatecan music you can't resist dancing to.