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With its white linen tablecloths and mahogany dining chairs, Fabio's looks awfully formal for the simple pasta dishes it serves. Don't try to order cutting-edge Northern Italian cuisine here, or regionally authentic Italian food. But don't go looking for Americanized spaghetti and meatballs either. Go for the old-fashioned pasta dishes. Sure, the Alfredo, pomodori and carbonara sauces are clichés, but so is Mom's apple pie. Fabio is an Italian-South American who founded Houston's fresh-pasta industry. So as you might expect, the pasta is sensational.