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Gilhooley's ramshackle patio is overgrown with vegetation, the interior is all worn woodwork and old furniture, and the rafters seem to be held together by the license plates that cover them. Children are forbidden here, no doubt in part because of some risqué artwork. But it's the seafood menu that will really amaze you. Gilhooley's Raw Bar may be the last place in the United States where you can get a dozen raw oysters and a rare hamburger for lunch. This funky bar in sunny San Leon is also the perfect place to take visiting French intellectuals -- just tell them Gilhooley's is truly representative of the local peasant cuisine.