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This Mexican plate-lunch spot keeps accreting like some whimsical downtown coral reef. Savor the irrepressible Irma Galvan's burgeoning decor, politically wired clientele and enormously comforting mom-food: landmark cheese enchiladas, real mole, chiles rellenos, pork ribs in home-style tomatillo sauce. Don't miss Irma's lemonade. Lunch and breakfast only; weekdays only.