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Unlike many of Houston's Indian restaurants, Madras Pavilion pays little attention to the cuisine of northern India, focusing instead on what's available in the southern part of the subcontinent -- particularly the South Indian specialty dosai, a crepelike dish made from lentil or rice flour. Madras, with a dozen different types, is a haven for this dish. The best is the ravala masala dosai, with its spicy potato and vegetable filling. Uthappam, a sort of Indian pizza, is also delectable. Desserts, alas, are not.