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The mesquite-smoked brisket and pork are among the best in the city. The mashed potato salad is flecked with pickle relish, and the "chili beans" are loaded with meat and spices. But it's the warm atmosphere that makes Pierson & Company unique. You seldom run into barbecue men as talkative as Clarence Pierson. It's easy to stick your head in the window of his little kitchen and strike up a conversation while he slices your meat. Order some extra to take home.