The tan and blistered bread balloon doesn't fit on the plate very well. Bigger than a football, it has a weird, formerly animate quality -- like a blowfish that's been deep-fried in mid-puff. My dining companion and editor, Lauren Kern, a twentysomething vegetarian, pokes through the crust with her finger and lets out a yelp. The steam inside is very hot. She tries again with a fork, and the bubble of crust slowly deflates. There's nothing inside, so when you tear it apart, the crust... More >>>