I almost parked in the spot reserved for the chef because it was empty when I arrived. I was there for a late dinner — 8 p.m. — but the chef was clearly not. At times like this, a critic is bound to wonder: Should I stay and eat or come back another time and hope the chef is there? When the restaurant is so tied to the chef and his aesthetic, you want him to be there so you'll get the full... More >>>