This week, we've been talking to Jean-Philippe Gaston of Cove, one of those under-the-radar chefs who likes to let his work speak for itself. Before we start our tasting, I notice his shelf full of cookbooks. Gaston pulls one down from the pile, the gold macrame- colored binding slightly ripped. He ... More >>
The raw fish and raw meat here are so delicately and deliciously rendered, you might think about giving up on the whole fire thing.
Jean-Philippe Gaston, the sous chef at Haven, is curling vermillion-colored slices of yellowfin tuna into elegant half-rosettes with his fingers before placing them gently on a white plate, all in a gently curving row. It doesn't take long; he plates as swiftly and surely as he cut the ribbons of fi ... More >>