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October 8, 2009Punjabi To-Go
October 8, 2009Food Fight: Battle Gyro
Photos by Katharine ShilcuttTo be fair, the gyro is as much American as it is Greek. It was introduced to both Greece and America around the same time in the mid 20th century, based on the Turkish doner kebab (which is what you'd order if you wanted a gyro in Britain, by the by). And although it still retains a certain elusive foreign quality, the gyro is as ubiquitous these days as the taco. That ubiquitousness can be good and bad. Gyros are a wonderful meal concept -- far more elegant
October 9, 2009$13 at Kojak's Timberbrook Café
Where: Kojak's Timberbrook Café, 1912 West 18th Street, 713-426-1800 What $13 gets you: At lunch, your money goes a little further at Kojak's (on average the lunch prices are about $1 less per entrée than the dinner prices). Lunch is from 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., and the lineup features hot sandwiches, Po-boys, salads and entrées. Dinner, from 5 to 8 p.m., is heavier on the entrées, but some sandwiches are still available. Get there before 6 p.m., and you can ask about the lunch sele
October 12, 2009The Tavern Declares War on Limp Dick (Pizza)
You may have seen the TV commercials. Two comely young lasses sit at a bar and bemoan their frustration with limp dicks. Limp-dick pizza, that is. As in, pizza that is soggy and floppy and generally unappealing. They even sing a little ditty about their dissatisfaction with dicks or pizza or whatever the hell it is they're babbling about, only to be rescued by a strapping fellow with a pizza from the Tavern that's "firm and tasty." This is the Tavern on West Gray, of course, that bastion of g
October 12, 2009First Look: Eddie V's Prime Seafood
Photos courtesy of Eddie V'sChilean sea bassThe first thing you notice at Eddie V's Prime Seafood, the newest mini-chain addition to Town & Country's enormous CityCentre development, are the white waistcoats on the servers. Yup, it's that kind of place. It's traditional, even retro, in layout and style, with a few key modern touches--especially on the menu--that keep things 21st century. The lounge is total throwback, complete with cocktail menu, live lounge music and so much relaxed mas
October 14, 2009Valentino
October 15, 2009Big House on the Hill
October 15, 2009Branch Water Tavern: The Best New Restaurant Not Open Yet?
Branch Water Tavern at 510 Shepherd will be a new American tavern with outstanding whiskeys, microbrewery beers and one of the hottest chefs in the city behind the stove. CIA grad David Grossman used to cook at Gravitas and Reef. Before that, he worked with the legendary Alfred Portale at Gotham Bar & Grill in New York. Gotham Bar & Grill pioneered the casual, cocktail-centric tavern style of fine dining 25 years ago in New York. According to a press release I received, Branch Water Tav
October 14, 2009Openings and Closings
Word hit this week that Las Alamedas -- the landmark Spanish restaurant that mysteriously shut down earlier this year -- will be reopening again soon, but not in the same location. The owners have leased a space in Katy's La Centerra, the town square-style development near Cinco Ranch. The restaurant's reopening is scheduled for Spring 2010, but the question on everyone's minds is this: Will a restaurant that depended heavily on its iconic building and beautiful location along the bayou work
October 16, 2009Chef Chat: John Signorelli of The Remington
Colorado-bred John Signorelli is executive sous chef at the Remington Restaurant (1919 Briar Oaks Lane), located inside the five-diamond Hotel St. Regis on the West Loop. The Remington was rated one of the top 100 hotel restaurants in America in a 2006 Zagat survey, based on food quality, décor and service. What exactly is an executive sous chef? I'm second in command under Executive Chef Garret Fujieda. Half my job is administrative: preliminary hiring, interviews, payroll, costing...
October 19, 2009Top 10 Places to Eat in Rice Village
10. Croissant Brioche 2435 Rice Blvd., 713-526-9188 While the café is cluttered with tightly packed tables and the service can be somewhat, ahem, European, the pastries, soups and sandwiches are delicious. The truly amazing coffee alone is worth a visit. 9. Chicken Kitchen 2516 Rice Blvd., 713-523-2323 Fresh rotisserie chicken is the star here, whether in a wrap, on a salad, in the signature "chop-chop" or served up on a platter. The side of plantains is an awesome nod to Chicken Kitch
October 19, 2009Burgers and Hash
October 22, 2009Food Photography Workshop with Penny De Los Santos
Much like professional food writers who feel threatened by the ever-growing cadre of "amateur" food bloggers, professional food photographers are assailed not only by those same food bloggers, but also by the whiz-bang, point-and-shoot cameras that they brashly carry into restaurants and kitchens. Some argue that these high-tech marvels can make even the most hapless would-be photog look like a pro. I must confess that I too have subscribed to this argument. That is, until this past Sund
October 22, 2009A Vegan Dinner at a Meatatarium
Photos by Katharine ShilcuttAppetizers: sweet potato chips and truffled carrots, radishes and turnipsVegans may take our cheese (and milk and meat and butter and even honey), but they may never take...our truffles. This seemed to be the rallying cry on Monday night at Beaver's Ice House as seven of Houston's most intrepid chefs embarked upon an ambitious 12-course meal (full menu here) made entirely of vegan ingredients. It can be difficult for even the most creative chef to suddenly be
October 27, 2009BBQ Buffet
October 29, 2009Straits
October 29, 2009Barbecue and Banchan
For this week's Cafe review, I visited Korean Garden Grille with a dining companion who was more interested in the appetizers than the barbecue. I took the same dining companion to a little mom-and-pop eatery called Korean Diner because I figured the place would have her favorite Korean item -- seafood pancakes. Korean Diner is not the place to go for bulgogi, but the seafood pancake was top-notch and the soft tofu soup wasn't bad either. Korean Diner is located on Blalock just past H-Mar
October 28, 2009All-You-Can-Eat Buffet Comedy
My brother Dave is a restaurant purveyor, and he once specialized in Chinese restaurants. Dave memorized the funniest lines from portly stand-up comic John Pinette's hilarious bit about being banned from the all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet. Dave launches into the outraged Chinese restaurant-owner routine whenever the family gathers -- especially when somebody goes back for seconds on the Thanksgiving pumpkin pie.
October 28, 2009Mexican Street Food Festival
October 29, 2009Fearless Critic: Not The Only Brutally Honest Reviews In Town
One can't possibly argue with the extraordinary usefulness of Fearless Critic, from its many lists, to its valuable compendium of area restaurants, to its handy ratings system. But one can definitely argue with its claim that its reviews, by "food nerds" and food bloggers, are somehow superior to those of tried and true restaurant critics' simply because the book doesn't accept advertising. Anyone who's worked within a newspaper will tell you that -- despite its fondest wishes to the con
October 29, 2009Mojarra Frita at Cocina de Colima
J. C. Reid Colima is a small state in western Mexico, bordering on the Pacific Ocean. You don't hear a lot about cuisine from Colima, but apparently it's well-known in Mexico and best known for its seafood, mainly grilled and fried fish, and its ceviche. In a testament to the diversity of regional cuisines in Houston, we have a restaurant called Cocina de Colima (3356 Fountain View) that specializes in food from this Mexican state. I visited Cocina de Colima as part of a recent taco truc
October 29, 2009Hop On Board: Houston Culinary Tours Embarking Soon
Photos by Katharine ShilcuttHave you ever wanted to cruise around with one of your favorite chefs, picking their brains as you hit his favorite hole-in-the-wall restaurants in the city? Your chance to do just that is coming soon. Whole Foods Market and the Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau have put together an intimate series of Houston Culinary Tours, featuring some of the city's best -- and perhaps least well-known -- restaurants. And guiding these tours? Monica Pope of t'afi
October 30, 2009Farewell Anonysaurus Tex
So long, anonymity -- it's been swell. For nearly ten years now, I have done my job incognito. Now I am joining the ranks of no-longer-anonymous restaurant critics. Last Friday, I gave a lecture to the students and faculty of the Texas A&M Meat Science Center without the usual hat and sunglasses. I didn't wear a disguise on Sunday when I appeared at the Texas Book Festival either. Soon you will be able to Google grainy photos of me to your heart's content. I also have given my publishers
November 2, 2009Top 5 Restaurants in Sugar Land
The suburbs don't have to be all about McMansions, box stores, and soul-crushing conformity, do they? Open your mind and head to the land of Tara Lipinski, Tom DeLay and sugar. Photo courtesy of Japaneiro's5. Sushi Bistro and Latin Grill, 2168 Texas Dr. Like many so-called fusion places, Japaneiro's falls short by trying to be everything to everyone. Skip the paltry Latin dishes, though, and you've still got an above-average sushi joint. 4. Original Eats Old Fashioned Grill, 3135 Hwy. 6
November 3, 2009Looking for a Bull Market
November 5, 2009Sampler Plate: This Week In Food Blogs
Each week, we put together a sampler plate of the most interesting links from both local and national food blogs. Know a blog we should be paying particular attention to? Leave the address in the comments section below. The Ferm: Sir Ron may or may not blog drunk from time to time (see this entry on "How Not To Get a Job at the Houston Press"), but his latest entry on newly proclaimed city holiday Saint Arnold's Day is a loving ode to Houston's favorite microbrewery complete with a reassessment
November 4, 2009Café Rabelais and Manon
Since we were seeing Opera in the Heights's production of the French opera Manon, we decided to pay homage by writing about another amazing French feat going on here in Houston. Café Rabelais in the Village is dear to many a European's displaced heart - it's the focal point of casual French dining in our inner city. While everything here is really top-notch, and we do mean everything, there were a few points of special interest on our recent trip.
November 6, 2009At La Plaza
Machacada con huevo, the Northern Mexican dish of dried beef with scrambled eggs, makes a lovely Saturday morning breakfast. I ate a wonderful version last Saturday at of La Plaza restaurant on Bingle at Long Point. The interior of this place looks like an all-American diner. I was confused when I first looked at the menu because, although La Plaza appears to be a Mexican restaurant, all the breakfasts were standard American fare like bacon and eggs and pancakes. When I asked the waitre
November 6, 2009Openings and Closings: October 2009
If restaurant openings are an economic indicator, the last month would seem to signify that things are picking back up -- at least in Houston. Things we've learned from this month's openings and closings include: don't put a "z" in your name if you're trying to be taken seriously as a wine bar; Town & Country's new CityCentre development is the place to be; restaurants will never be deterred from opening in the accursed location at 2303 Richmond; and yes, things are still reopening i
November 6, 2009This Week In Deliciousness
They run a great coffee shop, but the ambiance suffers a little from all the squished mushrooms and empty turtle shells lying around. Welcome back to the weekly round-up here at Eating Our Words, where we have a lovely bouquet and notes of walnut and oak in our boldly earthy flavor. Effervescent, but never insistent. Robb Walsh started us off with some foreign mustard favorites. Sadly, French's did not make the list. They're French, right? No? Okay, we're totally lost. Luckily, Robb ca
November 6, 2009Bivalve Throwdown: Oysters With a Side of Intrigue at Stella Sola
Photos by Katharine ShilcuttIn the heat of battle last night, the oysters -- and the chefs -- kept their cool. The fourth such event organized by Jenny Wang and the Houston Chowhounds, the Bivalve Throwdown at Stella Sola on Sunday afternoon saw 11 of the city's best chefs compete to create the best oyster dishes for a panel of distinguished judges. But that's where the "distinguished" part of the event ended: The afternoon was a celebration of the first Gulf oysters of the season that
November 9, 2009Chef Chat: Kay Soodjai of Khun Kay Thai Café
Kay Soodjai and her sister-in-law Supatra Yooto opened the Golden Room in Montrose 27 years ago. Last year they replaced the venerable Golden Room with Khun (Madame) Kay Thai Café (1209 Montrose), with a fast-casual concept and less expensive meals. Supatra, who describes herself as more of an "old-fashioned" Thai cook, offered some translation assistance as Kay was interviewed. How did you get started in the restaurant business? I worked for Chinese and Thai restaurants in Houston, Chi
November 10, 2009Not to Bragg
Back in the '70s, Hobbit Cafe's claim to fame was being the "only" vegetarian restaurant in Houston. Apparently the owners had another restaurant that served Caribbean food, and they decided to merge the two and create the carnivore-friendly cuisine we indulge in at Hobbit Cafe to this day. When offered a menu, try to determine which item came from which restaurant. We will give you a hint: If its name is out of a Middle Ages fantasy neverland, it is probably veggie-friendly. Our favori
November 10, 2009City of Coffee: Houston Coffee Culture
November 12, 2009City of Coffee
November 12, 2009Enough About Mi
November 12, 2009Fall Wine Tasting at Simposio Ristorante
In 2007, Vasco Luti, owner of Simposio Ristorante, opened the restaurant's new location in an unlikely shopping center at the corner of Westheimer and Dunvale. Historically, this native Tuscan focused on Northern Italian cuisine, but last night, Simposio debuted some new wines and Southern Italian dishes at the first of many tastings. Two months ago, Chef Riccardo Palazzo-Giorgio joined Simposio Ristorante as the new executive chef. A first-generation Italian-American, Palazzo-Giorgio t
November 12, 2009Good Deals on Texas Oysters
Texas oyster season opened November 1, and the oysters have started to flood the local market. Lots of restaurants around town are running specials. The cheapest price I've seen is at the Ragin Cajun on Richmond, where they offer 25¢ oysters during happy hour (Mondays through Fridays from 3 to 7 p.m.). That's an incredible $3 a dozen. You'd be lucky to find one oyster that cheap at the Grand Central Oyster Bar in New York.
November 13, 2009On a Roll at Kubo's Sushi Competition
Photos by Katharine ShilcuttThe bibimbap roll at Kubo'sRice, salmon, tuna, seaweed, wasabi, avocado, octopus, daikon radish, cucumber -- it seemed the food would never stop coming. Last night at Kubo's, we were faced with enough sushi to feed two sumo wrestlers. One brightly colored roll after another crossed our plates and palates as we attempted the near-impossible task of choosing a favorite from the group. Kubo's, the veteran Japanese restaurant in Rice Village, is known fo
November 13, 2009Saying Yes to Yelapa
Photos by Katharine ShilcuttIt looks like the curse may have been lifted from 2303 Richmond. The location has seen many restaurants come and go over the years, some which have had achingly short lifespans. Most recently, it was the home of The Chimney (for a few short months) and before that, Saute. But its newest occupant, Yelapa Playa Mexicana, seems determined to shake that curse. The man behind the original Berryhill Fish Tacos, Chuck Bulnes, is back in the restauranteur saddle once again
November 16, 2009Straits Singaporean: A Different Kind of Fire
Photos by Margaret Downing The Roti John Sandwich, Straits' signature dish, is braised beef (or chicken), with onion, tomato, spicy mayo and garlic fries.There we were, looking at what appeared to be eyes staring back at us in a faintly orangish sauce. "It's messy," my dining companion promised, "But it's good." Actually, the "eyes" were halved boiled eggs, their deep yellow yolks in stark contrast to the coconut milk-flavored sauce that surrounded them in a dish called Singaporean sh
November 17, 2009Flounder Fish & Chips
November 19, 2009Chef Chat: Houston Country Club's Michael O'Connor
Michael O'Connor, chef of Houston Country Club's Garde Manger, is just about as private as the club he works with. We luckily ran into him late-night for a drink and convinced him to talk about himself and his "geeky" craft. Eating Our Words: How hard is it to get a meal from you? Michael O'Connor: HCC is a private club. The only ways to dine with us are to be a member, come as the guest of a member, or attend one of our banquets as a guest. EOW: Your kitchen situation is a little uni
November 18, 2009New Menu Items at Ra Sushi in Highland Village
Photos courtesy of RA SushiA banana split at a sushi restaurant? Yes! Read on...RA Sushi's corporate executive chef Tai Obata has come through with some new menu items -- several with a Tex-Mex influence -- and we made our way over to a media tasting to try them out at the Highland Village location on Westheimer. It was a tasting that went on longer than usual when the kitchen was slammed with other customers. Whatever RA is doing, it's working, and this was on a Tuesday night. The first cou
November 18, 2009Vegetarian Thanksgiving
Photo by Major Clanger There will be no Tofurky on this year's table.Eating Our Words isn't a vegetarian (or -- perish the thought -- a vegan), but we have a lot of friends who are. And for those folks, Thanksgiving can be a nightmare of avoiding the main show (that dried out or deep-fried turkey) while navigating gloppy side dishes like green bean casserole, diabetic-coma-inducing syrupy sweet potatoes and dry, bland stuffing that is only partially palatable when drenched with a copio
November 18, 2009Happy Hour Scene: So Vino
Photo by Jane Catherine CollinsWednesday means only one thing -- wine happy hours. By the time midweek rolls around, we need wine, and we need happy. Unfortunately, happy hour is not so happy at So Vino (507 Westheimer). When we walked in, it was empty and stayed that way. Our guess is that the lack of happy hour specials on food must keep the crowds away. This was so disappointing, because So Vino has so much potential. Mondays through Fridays from 5 to 7 p.m., So Vino features three
November 19, 2009Food Fight: Battle Masala Dosai
Photos by Katharine ShilcuttAfter last week's Battle Grilled Cheese, we received a gentle prod from one of our readers and favorite local food mavens, Dr. Ricky: "I think there need to be more creative choices for the food battles. Down to grilled cheese sandwiches?"It was with a heavy sigh and a heavy heart that we admitted to ourselves that Dr. Ricky was right. Food Fight has been taking a turn for the bland (if comforting) lately. We suddenly felt remiss and very disappointed in ourse
November 19, 2009Upcoming Events
Although the Saturday tours at the brewery are still on hold for now, you can still get your fix of walking and beer with the Saint Arnold Pub Crawl tonight starting at 6 p.m. As a special bonus, there will be limited-edition Christmas Ale on tap. The crawl will take place in the north part of Rice Village, and because the crawls have gotten so huge, the first stop will actually be in three locations (mystery locations, as per tradition). Pick up your ticket at one of the three locations
November 20, 2009Openings and Closings
November has been a good month for Houston restaurants so far, with notably few closings. Among them in the past week were two casualties of Spanish cuisine: Tio Pepe (5213 Cedar) in Bellaire and the adjoining Garnaxas Tapas Bar. In better news, a spate of openings around the city -- and especially at the increasingly busy CityCentre -- is offering more places for Houstonians to spend their dining dollars. Branch Water Tavern has finally opened its doors at 510 Shepherd. Although it's on
November 20, 2009
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© 2009 Village Voice Media All rights reserved.