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Subject: Meat
Picnic Platter at the Russian General Store
April 25, 2008Small Town Sausage at Krolczyk Meats
June 6, 2008National Cancer Organization Wants Hot Dogs Out of HISD Schools
October 14, 2008National Cancer Organization Wants Hot Dogs Out of HISD Schools
October 14, 2008History of Texas Chili--Without Beans
Chili con carne was introduced to America by the "Chili Queens," women who served food in San Antonio's Military Plaza as early as the 1860s. Chili stands were also common in Galveston and Houston; they were the taco trucks of the 1800s. Tamales with chili was the most common order--beans were often added. Laborers counted on the chili vendors for a quick meal. Adventurous eaters loved them. And the upper classes tried to chase them away or get them shut down. Chili con carne is not an impo
December 10, 2008Christmas Shopping and Q in Bellville
The Poffenberger boys at Bellville Meat Market got into the barbecue business fairly recently. It wasn't until two years ago that they started selling brisket and sausage sandwiches at the butcher shop. And according to the sign out front, they've already won some kind of award for their "2008 Grand Champion Pecan Smoked Brisket." As soon as I saw the barbecue menu, I started dreaming up a sandwich that would rival the Bohemian Special down at Mustang Creek BBQ. I asked the counterman if he wo
December 15, 2008How I Learned to Love Piss Pie
Steak and kidney pie is a fine old British dish that I have eaten twice in the line of duty over the last year. On both occasions, I found the urine scent of the kidneys disgusting. For some reason I find it difficult to swallow an organ meat that smells like a public restroom. Normally, I am an offal-loving guy. As I pointed out the first time I choked down the urine-flavored pie in a review of the Firkin & Phoenix, a British pub on Westheimer, I love the brain masala at Indika, and the sweetb
January 14, 2009A Foray into Locally Grown, Grass-Fed Beef
The freight train that is the slow / local / sustainable / organic / community-supported food revolution continues to barrel ahead into the consciousness of Houston food lovers.A recent visit to several of Houston's farmer's markets found them bustling with vendors and customers alike with an outstanding selection of produce, dairy and meats.Additionally, prominent Houston chefs are starting to find their "local food" religion by offering daily or weekly menus based on locally-sourced ingredien
January 26, 2009Davis Meat Market's Lockwood Cheeseburger
The cheeseburger I ate at Davis Meat Market on Lockwood just north of I-10 was just short of greatness. The sesame seed bun wasn't properly toasted and the burger patty was a little dry. I got sliced tomato, chopped lettuce and onions and some fresh jalapeño along with mustard and mayo on the sandwich. The hand cut French fries that come with the cheeseburger basket were fantastic. Mr. Davis grinds his own hamburger meat everyday, so that's not the problem. In fact, the fry cook at the Lockw
February 9, 2009Flavors of the 5th: Davis Meat Co. BBQ
The barbecue at Davis Meat Co. on Lockwood is worthy of your attention. The brisket is tender, juicy and tastes fabulous on a sandwich. And the housemade coarsely-ground pork and beef link is one of the best sausages made within the city limits. Unfortunately, the pork ribs come from oversize slabs, rather than the succulent little three and half and down slabs that yield the best rib meat. Overall, the barbecue is long-cooked and tender, but the smoke flavor is not quite as pronounced as we l
February 18, 2009Trainsmash Burger at Out of Africa
Trainsmash is a South African tomato and onion sauce--a trainsmash burger comes slathered in the stuff. This one also had lettuce, fresh tomato and mayonnaise. I liked the condiments alright, it was the burger patty that was the problem. Out of Africa, the South African restaurant at Sugar Creek and Highway 59 in Sugar Land, is using high quality ground beef for the burgers--I think it's Black Angus. The problem is, the ground beef is just too lean. The burger patty comes out hard and dense an
February 23, 2009Carnivores Behaving Frugally
That's Your Big Boy If the three-martini lunch was the status symbol of the go-go '80s (Gordon Gekko and all that), then surely the steakhouse dinner replete with a bottle of Opus One and a finishing cigar was the defining dish of the naughty '00s (pronounced "aughties" by the way). Such naughty carnivorousness was exacerbated by an avalanche of high-end steakhouse chains entering the Houston market. Old standbys and feisty newcomers mingled and prospered during the boom -- Ruth's
March 13, 2009Angus Grill Brazilian Steakhouse
March 26, 2009Downtown Attraction The Grove
March 19, 2009Flavors of the Fifth at Davis Meat Market and Burt's Meat Market
February 19, 2009Over-the-Top Chophouse at Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse
January 1, 2009Feast Is Bloody Brilliant
November 20, 2008Sangria and Sliders at Open City
November 13, 2008Meat Lovers' Swordfight at Fuegovivo Churrascaria
October 23, 2008Pork Ribs Taste Like Candy at Midway BBQ
October 2, 2008Flames of Desire at Firehouse Subs
July 24, 2008Nuevo Inca-Mex at Inka South American Cuisine
May 8, 2008Great Stuff at Abe's Cajun Market
May 1, 2008It's Hip to Be Square at Masraff's
Continental cuisine is over, so why would anybody want to eat at this retirees' hang-out on South Post Oak Lane?
March 6, 2008Ghost Town CFS: Carriage House Cafe
February 14, 2008The New Q: Smoke-Braising
Photo by Robb WalshThere's no reason that you have to choose between braising and barbecuing. While working on a new backyard barbecue cookbook, I discovered that the two techniques can be combined with awesome results. Start off by smoking or grilling the meat. Next, prepare a braising liquid in the kitchen and bring it to a boil. Put an oven-proof roasting pan on your grill directly over the hot part of the fire. Carefully add the hot braising liquid to the pan on the grill and return it to a
June 4, 2009$7 at Putty's Pizza
Photo by Paul KnightWhere: Putty's Pizza, underneath One Allen Center, 500 Dallas St., 713-951-9369 What $7 gets you: A greasy slice of pizza and any item from a menu that would make any bar proud. Unfortunately, Putty's doesn't serve booze. The lunch options in the downtown tunnels are diverse, but unless you're hungry for fast food, come armed with more than $7. You'd probably make it at Ninfa's or Murphy's Deli, but don't even think about the Post Oak Grill or Café Basil. You can definit
May 21, 2009Samurai Gaúchos
May 28, 2009Big Flavors, Little Tables
June 11, 2009Cafe: What's a Salumeria?
Photo by Luiz CastroPoscol, Marco Wiles's fabulous new Italian joint on Westheimer, is the subject of this week's Cafe review. While I raved about the food I ate there, I also whined about the cured meats. Wiles calls the place an enoteca (wine bar) and salumeria (cured meat shop). But if you have ever been to a salumeria in, say, Bologna, for instance, you might find Poscol a little light on the cured meats. When I think of a salumeria, I think of an Italian deli that is full to bursting with p
June 11, 2009Not So Clear Cut
June 18, 2009Dry-Aged Black Angus
Photo by Robb WalshWhile we were debating the word salumeria, a commenter by the name of SpandTexPants complained that Houston didn't have a butcher shop that sold dry-aged beef. Well, now we do. Hubbell & Hudson Market in the Woodlands has a dry-aging case in its meat department. When I stopped by today and asked about it, a counterman named German got out a black, moldy USDA Prime rib eye to show me what it looked like. This piece of meat went into the dry-aging case on June 9th. The weight i
June 18, 2009The New Bistro Steaks and Fajitas
June 18, 2009Hollister Hospitality
June 18, 2009H-E-B Recalls Beef Products
In Robb Walsh's recent feature story, "Not So Clear Cut," he explains how meat purveyors treat tough cuts of meat by marinating them with enzymes in commercial vacuum tumblers. But the practice has its risks, as Walsh writes: "We can thank vacuum tumbler technology for turning previously tough cuts into excellent fajitas. But as always, there's a catch. As one A&M meat scientist explained, the process of marinating beef faces the same inherent problem as grinding beef. If you start off with on
July 1, 2009Creole Rabbit
July 2, 2009Food Fight: Battle Chicken Fried Steak
Photos by Katharine Shilcutt A contentious battle if there ever was one... Chicken fried steak (or CFS, for short) is up there in the great pantheon of Texas foods alongside cheese enchiladas, brisket and chili. But just because a food is inherently Texan doesn't mean you can always find it done well in Houston, and vice versa: Some of the best Mexican food in the world is found right here in the Bayou City. Steve Earle said it best in a recent interview with John Lomax: "Houston was a
July 23, 2009This Week's No Reservations: Rust Belt
Photo by CaDeltaFotoBaltimore's skyline: Much nicer than one would anticipateThis week Anthony Bourdain headed to Baltimore, Buffalo and Detroit, or, as he called them, "fucked up cities I kinda love." The episode was light on snark and heavy on pathos and snowscapes of abandoned structures. For some much-needed comic relief, Bourdain invited along his friend Zamir, the hard-drinking Russian Sancho Panza to Bourdain's grizzled New York Don Quijote. Baltimore Bourdain said he was drawn t
July 28, 2009RDG Bar Annie's Shrimp Meat Balls
In the wake of Café Annie's closing, Robert Del Grande has taken up the chef's hat again. Just a bit further down Post Oak, the RDG Grill Room, Bar Annie and the BLVD Lounge are now all serving a variety of small plates and entrees at different price points. But even in a new place, Chef Del Grande is using an old trick to please diners: meat on a stick. Of course, this recipe calls for shrimp instead of hot dogs. The recipe, after the jump.
August 6, 2009No Reservations: San Francisco
Photo by Preston CovillaudOutside Pirate Cat Radio in San FranciscoFeeling even more antagonistic than usual, Anthony Bourdain toured San Francisco in this week's episode of No Reservations. He brought the full power of his disdain to the city's organic, local and vegan food by not sampling a bite of it. Finding the city to be a place of contradictions, of both lentils with seitan and martinis with steak, Tony stuck to the martinis. Bourdain first visits a place whose existence depends
August 11, 2009A Messy Roadhouse Burger in Cypress
Photo by Robb WalshIn this week's Café review, we eat burgers at Rockwell Tavern, a roadhouse on Telge Road in Cypress. The dense, moist and slightly sweet custom-baked rolls are the first thing you notice about these burgers. Then the never-been-frozen freshly ground beef grabs your attention. The meat is very juicy, and the patty wants to fall apart. The "Instant Vintage" bacon cheeseburger, one of 13 burgers on the menu, is a stand-out. It comes with Swiss, jack and cheddar cheese a
August 19, 2009King Bubba
August 20, 2009The British Isles: Texas Haggis
Photo by Robb WalshIn photos, canned haggis looks alarmingly like dog food. It is traditionally eaten as part of a full Scottish breakfast or as an entrée on a bed of mashed rutabagas and potatoes, which go by the cutesy names of "neeps and tatties" in Scotland. I bought a can of Caledonian Haggis at the Rice Village store called the British Isles the other day. I'll file a full report on the flavor as soon as I get hooked up with some neeps and tatties. I had stopped by British Isles
August 24, 2009Grass-fed Beef: Healthier Hamburgers
Photos by Robb WalshGrass-fed sirloin hamburger steak is downright delicious. No doubt grass-fed beef raised without antibiotics and hormones is better for you too. Grass-fed sirloins lack the marbling that makes for tender steaks. But grind it up, and you get all the bold herbaceous flavor without the tenderness and texture problems. My hamburger steak was a little dry -- after all, the meat is something like 95 percent lean. But if you ground up this grass-fed beef at home, and added a
September 15, 2009Remarkable Rendang
September 24, 2009Lingering Over the Linguine
October 1, 2009Checking in at Stanton's City Bites
Photo by J.C. ReidSeems like every year about this time there's a flurry of blog posts and buzz about an "undiscovered" burger joint called Stanton's City Bites (1420 Edwards St.). Of course, Stanton's has been around forever, but it seems to keep a relatively low profile in the ongoing Houston burger wars. Hardcore Houston burger fanatics swear by it, and it always seems to place well in the Best of Houston® awards (this year it won the Reader's Choice award for Best Burger). Stanton'
October 15, 2009Burgers and Hash
October 22, 2009Beef Cheeks at Gerardo's Drive-in
A surprising number of people don't know what beef cheek is. Several times I've been in a fancy restaurant with "braised beef cheeks" on the menu and someone will ask, "Those are the cheeks from the rump of the cow, right?" Wrong. Beef cheek comes from the head of a cow, specifically the muscles around the jaw. All that cud chewing makes for an initially tough and sinewy cut of beef, but with the proper slow-cooking technique, it will turn fork-tender. The idea that meat can come from th
October 27, 2009Looking for a Bull Market
November 5, 2009
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© 2009 Village Voice Media All rights reserved.