Subject:

Robb Walsh

  • Blogs

    August 21, 2009

    Café Cubano's Cuban Sandwich

    Photos by Robb Walsh​At Café Cubano, 9411 Richmond, the pre-made Cuban sandwiches are kept in the refrigerator. When you order one, the counter person heats it in the microwave and then puts it on the sandwich press. I drank a cortadito (sweet espresso) while I waited. Café Cubano's Cuban sa ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 19, 2009

    A Messy Roadhouse Burger in Cypress

    Photo by Robb Walsh​In this week's Café review, we eat burgers at Rockwell Tavern, a roadhouse on Telge Road in Cypress. The dense, moist and slightly sweet custom-baked rolls are the first thing you notice about these burgers. Then the never-been-frozen freshly ground beef grabs your attenti ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 13, 2009

    Lingering Over Lunch: Rioja's

    Photo by Robb Walsh​Fine dining establishments are suffering in these days of the downturn. But as we've mentioned many a time before, the best restaurants in the city have some of the choicest lunch specials. Bistro Don Camillo's business lunch, an appetizer, entrée and dessert for $18.95 is ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 12, 2009

    The Giant Salsa Bowls at Tacos La Bala

    Photo by Robb Walsh​At Tacos La Bala #2, the subject of this week's café review, the fiery green house hot sauce is served in enormous three-legged plastic bowls that look like Mexican molcajetes. The big bowl on each table usually has a plate over top to keep the flies and foreign matter out ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 11, 2009

    Hong Kong Supermarket's Herb Bin: Fish Mint

    Photo by Robb Walsh​You may recognize the heart-shaped leaves and weird aroma of this Vietnamese herb. It's called dap ca, or fish mint in English. You often get fish mint on the herb plate when you order bo nuong xa, the popular dish that comes with lemongrass-marinated beef, herbs, shredded ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 10, 2009

    Lobster Grits: A Stroke of Genius

    Photos by Robb Walsh​As we reported previously, there is a glut of cheap lobster on the market. Last Thursday, I took advantage of the weak market by picking up three sea monsters for a dinner party. The prices at Hong Kong Supermarket in Bellaire Chinatown were $8.99 a pound for big lobster ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 10, 2009

    French-Vietnamese Open-Faced Sandwiches at Parisian Bakery

    Photo by Robb Walsh​The small banh mi rolls are six for a dollar at the Parisian Bakery next to the giant Viet Hoa supermarket in the Asian shopping center west of Beltway 8 at the Beechnut exit. While I was filling up a bag with the Vietnamese bolillos, I noticed some fine-looking savory past ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 7, 2009

    Health Department Roundup: Hyperlink Edition

    This week's hall of health-code-violating shame includes restaurants previously reviewed, mentioned, discussed or otherwise examined in the Houston Press. Back in September 2004, Press food critic Robb Walsh said to forget about the then-ubiquitous South Beach bitch of a diet and eat up at The Sac ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 6, 2009

    In the Little Stalls Behind Canino's: Huauzontle

    Photo by Robb Walsh​Maybe I am spending too much time hanging around at Canino's trying to score. This time, I went home with a bag full or huauzontle [wah-ZONT-lay], a Mexican weed that tastes like broccoli. Some food writers have mistaken it for sorghum, which was imported to the New World f ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 3, 2009

    Taco Truck Secrets

    Photos by Robb Walsh​I stopped at the Fast Taco truck on Fondren just north of Bellaire to get a pork taco the other day. While I was looking in the window watching the proprietor cook, I noticed a pan on a hot plate full of something that looked interesting. "What's that?" I asked the taquero ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 29, 2009

    Chocolate Éclairs and Careme

    Photo by Robb Walsh​The chocolate éclairs at French Riviera Bakery on Chimney Rock are an expensive addiction at $3 a piece. My main purpose in going to the bakery is to purchase the large unsliced farmhouse loaf, which is our house bread. I inevitably also bring home two chocolate éclairs i ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 28, 2009

    Dim Sum Seafood Specials

    Photo by Robb Walsh​It's the seafood that makes the weekend dim sum service at Fung's Kitchen special. Tender baby conch in curry, and succulent clams in black bean sauce were among the seafood delicacies available at the dim sum steam table this weekend. You have to get up from the table and ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 27, 2009

    The Meaning of Mojarra

    Photo by Robb Walsh​After more than a week of fishing in Arkansas, I headed for Taqueria Jesus Maria as soon as I got back to town. I had Tex-Mex in mind, but I skipped the enchiladas when I saw the special on a whole fried mojarra. I love to eat the crispy fried fish chunks on a hot corn tort ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 16, 2009

    $13 at Edomae Sushi

    Photo by Robb WalshWhere: Edomae Sushi, 12225 Westheimer, 281-558-5599 What $13 gets you: Sushi Special C from the lunch special menu is $10.95 and includes a California roll rolled in bright orange flying fish roe and a Spicy Tuna roll with your choice of miso soup or salad. If you can't afford th ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 15, 2009

    Obscure Wine Grapes: Cividin

    Photo by Robb WalshIf I said the flavor and aroma of this sweet white wine reminded me of an overripe pear, would that be a bad thing? Friuli winemaker Emilio Bulfon found these ancient wine grapes accidently dotted among other varietals in one of his vineyards. It isn't clear whether the grape ori ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 14, 2009

    Obscure Wine Grapes: Bargain Bin Bonanza

    Photo by Robb WalshPiculit Neri, an Italian red wine made from an ancient varietal, was the first subject in a series about obscure wine grapes I started on this blog a couple of weeks ago. I was proud of myself for buying such a cool bottle of wine at Nundini's for under $20. About that post, a com ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 7, 2009

    Cheap Lobsters Flooding the Market

    Photo by Robb WalshDesperate lobster fisherman are selling cheap lobsters by the side of the road, undercutting an already weak market for the luxury seafood item, according to recent accounts. An Atlantic article, "The Mystery of Cheap Lobster Prices," explains that the crash of the Icelandic banki ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 6, 2009

    $13 at Pagoda

    Photo by Robb WalshWhere: Pagoda Vietnamese Bistro & Bar, 4705 Inker St., 832-673-0400 What $13 gets you: A cup of pineapple seafood soup ($5) and a big bowl of vermicelli salad ($8) or a Vietnamese sandwich ($4) and a bowl of pho ($8). Pagoda is an authentic Vietnamese restaurant with a chic mode ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 2, 2009

    Torta Trend: We Call Dibs

    Photo by dalboz17A recent item in Details magazine declared the torta the next trendy sandwich, following on the heels of the banh minh and before that, the panini. The article continued with the best places to get one, and drew attention to a sandwich in Oregon made with ciabatta. Newsflash, Yankee ... More >>

  • Blogs

    July 1, 2009

    H-E-B Recalls Beef Products

    In Robb Walsh's recent feature story, "Not So Clear Cut," he explains how meat purveyors treat tough cuts of meat by marinating them with enzymes in commercial vacuum tumblers. But the practice has its risks, as Walsh writes: "We can thank vacuum tumbler technology for turning previously tough cut ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 29, 2009

    Cucuzza Blossom Honey

    Photo by Robb WalshCucuzza is a Sicilian squash that's sometimes eaten young like summer squash and sometimes allowed to grow to three or four feet, when it's eaten like winter squash. (It's the one that looks like a green baseball bat.) Cucuzza squash blossoms are also considered a treat in Sicilia ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 23, 2009

    $7 at Hubbell & Hudson

    Photo by Robb WalshWhere: Hubbell & Hudson Sandwich Counter, 24 Waterway Avenue, The Woodlands, 281-203-5600 What $7 will get you: Some of the best sandwiches in the greater Houston area. The Italian grinder, piled high with ham, salami and roasted red peppers, was $7. Most of the sandwiches at the ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 19, 2009

    Dad's Day Gift Idea: Gourmet Jerky Assortment

    Photos by Robb WalshI used to think I was a beef jerky connoisseur because I pulled over at Woody's Smokehouse on I-45 halfway to Dallas and tried a different variety of jerky every time I took a trip north. I also thought turkey jerky was pretty adventurous. That was before I visited the store in H ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 18, 2009

    Grilling Recipe: Kalbi Fajitas

    Photo by Robb WalshWhile I was working on this week's feature story, "Not So Clear Cut," I grilled a lot of different beef cuts fajita-style and asked my friends and family what they thought. The hands-down favorite at every taste test was the short rib meat. It was also the cheapest. I bought a big ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 17, 2009

    Obscure Wine Grapes: Nuragus

    Photo by Robb WalshThe Nuragus grape is the most widely grown in Sardinia. Some experts believe that the grape was brought to the island more than 3,000 years ago by the Phoenicians. It is so prolific and adaptable, it has been called pagadeppidus ("pay-debts grape"), preni tineddus ("fill-up-vats g ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 15, 2009

    Mesquite Charcoal Fireworks Warning

    Photo by Robb WalshTo use mesquite in the grill, I usually light some charcoal briquettes and add mesquite wood after a while. But I recently saw 20-pound bags of mesquite lump charcoal on sale at HEB for 12 bucks each. Starting the fire with mesquite charcoal and then adding mesquite wood seemed li ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 10, 2009

    The 10 Best Burgers In Texas

    Photo by Robb WalshCalvin Trillin once said, "Anybody who doesn't think that the best hamburger place in the world is in his home town is a sissy." I think the best hamburgers places in the world are all in my home state. Here's my list of the 10 Best Burgers in Texas.

  • Blogs

    June 9, 2009

    Recession Dining: $1 Frankfurter at Yapa

    Photo by Robb WalshThe first time I walked into Yapa Kitchen Café in the shopping center at Buffalo Speedway and Bellaire a couple of years ago, I turned around and walked out again. There wasn't anything wrong with the prepared foods in the refrigerator case -- in fact, they looked fantastic. It w ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 8, 2009

    Wal-Mart Goes Tex-Mex

    Photos by Robb WalshWal-Mart has entered the highly competitive Hispanic grocery store category with a prototype on Long Point at Wirt. Supermercado de Wal-Mart opened its doors a month ago. The nation's biggest retailer is going up against the well-established Fiesta supermarket chain and HEB's Mi ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 5, 2009

    The Hollister Burger

    Photo by Robb WalshHollister Grill on Hollister St. at Long Point is a neighborhood diner specializing in comfort foods like meatloaf, pot roast and chicken-fried steak. Its hand-formed eight-ounce burger comes with lettuce, tomato, purple onion and pickles with mustard and mayo on the side. The fri ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 5, 2009

    This Week In Deliciousness

    Photo by Robb WalshI can't write this column on an empty stomach. It's difficult to maintain your trademark acerbic wit when all you can think is, "I would literally murder somebody for that hamburger / pizza / pastry / whatever insane but incredible dish from Feast we've featured this week." ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 4, 2009

    The New Q: Smoke-Braising

    Photo by Robb WalshThere's no reason that you have to choose between braising and barbecuing. While working on a new backyard barbecue cookbook, I discovered that the two techniques can be combined with awesome results. Start off by smoking or grilling the meat. Next, prepare a braising liquid in th ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 3, 2009

    An Industrial Quesadilla with Ziploc Salsa

    Photos by Robb WalshIt was the anthropomorphic taco art that made me pull over to check out the taco truck called Industrial Tacos Snacks at the corner of Crosstimbers and Airline. I mean, look at the smile on that taco. I purchased a half-liter of Mexican Coke and a quesadilla al pastor that the ... More >>

  • Blogs

    June 2, 2009

    Lone Star Culinary: You'll Think You Died and Went to Spice Heaven

    Photos by Robb WalshVisit the new Lone Star Culinary/Flores Spice Company store behind El Bolillo on Airline across the street from Canino's, but go when you have some time for shopping. I was so overwhelmed to see all the stuff I needed in one place that I didn't even buy anything. The bulk spice ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 28, 2009

    Jellyfish Salad at Que Huong

    Photos by Robb WalshWhen the weather turns hot, my mind turns to jellyfish salad. The hot and spicy Vietnamese summer concoction is also known on Houston-area Vietnamese restaurant menus as "Seafood Delight" or "Summer Delight." It contains crunchy jellyfish, cucumbers, onions and greens. Other seaf ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 27, 2009

    Texas Traveler: Stopping for Burgers in College Station

    Photos by Robb WalshShould you find yourself hungry while passing through Aggieland, I recommend a stopover at the original Koppe Bridge Bar & Grill on Wellborn, just south of FM 2818, for a burger basket. The restaurant buys fresh-ground 80/20 chuck and has it delivered daily from a local meat mark ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 26, 2009

    Spicy Tofu Soup and Bulgogi Tacos: Lunch at Hagawon

    Photos by Robb WalshBulgogi romaine tacosHagawon on Richmond at Kirkwood is the latest addition to our fast-growing Korean tofu and barbecue-restaurant category. The interior is bright and shiny with wacky Korean graphics. I love the poster about making tofu by hand "like god intended." I ordered th ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 26, 2009

    Farm Stand Junkie: Watermelons and Field Peas

    Photo by Robb WalshThe old split watermelon trick -- works every time. On me, anyway. On the way home from a Memorial Day car trip yesterday, I saw a wagon full of watermelons out on Highway 6, just before the entrance to 290, and I pulled the car over I hate to pass a well-stocked produce stand. I ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 15, 2009

    This Week In Deliciousness

    Treacle sponge and custard at the suspiciously low-priced Feast Well, I never. Last week, a couple of truants snuck in a pair of articles after This Week In Deliciousness went to press, so even though they were tardy, go read about Spec's cheese-less Wine & Cheese festival, and make sure you send t ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 13, 2009

    Homemade Hamburguesa Tortas

    Photo by Robb Walsh In this week's Cafe review, I visit Tortas El Angel and other torta shops around town looking for the perfect hamburger torta. The problem with all the ones I tried was the hamburger patty -- it was too thin. In the end, I made the best hamburger torta at home on the grill. I sta ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 5, 2009

    Cinco de Mayo Recipe: Sonoran Hot Dogs

    photos by Robb Walsh You have to thin mayonnaise with some lemon juice (and Tabasco sauce if you like) and put it into a squeeze bottle if you want to put the cool squiggles on top. But I'm getting ahead of myself. First, go to El Bolillo on Airline and buy the small size bolillos. Then get some b ... More >>

  • Blogs

    May 5, 2009

    Serious Q: Barbecue 101 at Texas A&M

    photo by Robb Walsh It's not too late to sign up for the most serious barbecue seminar in the state. BBQ 101 is a three-day professional training session sponsored by the National Barbecue Association at the Texas A&M Meat Science Center in College Station. The class will be held next week beginnin ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 17, 2009

    Oversized French Ice Cream Cone

    photo by Robb Walsh La Brocante on Kirkwood is the subject of this week's Cafe review. I was particularly taken with their old-fashioned ice cream desserts. I am sure there is a French name for the sweet pastry crust the ice cream sundaes are served in. They look like taco shells, but taste like c ... More >>

  • Blogs

    April 6, 2009

    Intercontinental BBQ

    photo by Robb Walsh The brisket in the steam table bin looked hopelessly dried out when I stopped into Barney's BBQ at FM 1960 just east of the Hardy Toll Road around 12:30 in the afternoon. I asked for a sliced brisket and sausage sandwich and requested my meat from the fatty end of the brisket. T ... More >>

  • Blogs

    January 19, 2009

    It Says It's Custard, And It's Not Pudding You On

    Sorry, couldn't resist. The CreamWorx that just opened at 8817 Texas 6 in Missouri City might want to change its sign just a little to let people - not as acquainted with frozen custard - know that what it's selling is closer to ice cream than Jello pudding. I drove by it several times, despite m ... More >>

  • Blogs

    November 26, 2008

    Last Minute Thanksgiving Shopping

    Photos by Robb Walsh Forgot the whipped cream for the pumpkin pie? You might take the opportunity to check out the latest in grocery stores -- the new mega-HEB at Bunker Hill and I-10. It's only 130,000 square feet -- the humongo-HEB in Pearland is slightly bigger -- but it's still the biggest groc ... More >>

  • News

    October 30, 2008

    Texas Beer

    Photos by Robb Walsh Forgot the whipped cream for the pumpkin pie? You might take the opportunity to check out the latest in grocery stores -- the new mega-HEB at Bunker Hill and I-10. It's only 130,000 square feet -- the humongo-HEB in Pearland is slightly bigger -- but it's still the biggest groc ... More >>

  • Blogs

    October 29, 2008

    Eggs Poached in Milk Over Cheese Grits

    Photos by Robb Walsh Forgot the whipped cream for the pumpkin pie? You might take the opportunity to check out the latest in grocery stores -- the new mega-HEB at Bunker Hill and I-10. It's only 130,000 square feet -- the humongo-HEB in Pearland is slightly bigger -- but it's still the biggest groc ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 29, 2008

    Shubhra’s Texas Peach Lassi

    Photos by Robb Walsh Forgot the whipped cream for the pumpkin pie? You might take the opportunity to check out the latest in grocery stores -- the new mega-HEB at Bunker Hill and I-10. It's only 130,000 square feet -- the humongo-HEB in Pearland is slightly bigger -- but it's still the biggest groc ... More >>

  • Blogs

    August 29, 2008

    Texas Peach Preserves and Texas Fig Jam

    Photos by Robb Walsh Forgot the whipped cream for the pumpkin pie? You might take the opportunity to check out the latest in grocery stores -- the new mega-HEB at Bunker Hill and I-10. It's only 130,000 square feet -- the humongo-HEB in Pearland is slightly bigger -- but it's still the biggest groc ... More >>

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