Subject: Roy Wang

• Shanghainese, If You Please

  May 21, 2009

• The Many Faces of Mien Chin

  Photos by Robb WalshIn this week's Cafe review, we explore the many faces of mien chin, or wheat gluten. First served as a meat substitute for the vegetarian Buddhists of ancient China, wheat gluten is also powdered and sold in health food stores as seitan. In Shanghainese cuisine, gluten is appreciated by non-vegetarians for its unique texture. Of the three varieties on the menu at Shanghai Café on Bellaire, the sponge form was the most intriguing. "Baked spongy gluten," or kao fu, is made by

  May 20, 2009