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100 Favorite Dishes 2012: No. 25, Shrimp and Grits at Shade

100 Favorite Dishes 2012: No. 25, Shrimp and Grits at Shade
Photo by Katharine Shilcutt

This year leading up to our annual Best of Houston® issue, we're counting down our 100 favorite dishes in Houston. This list comprises our favorite dishes from the last year, dishes that are essential to Houston's cultural landscape and/or dishes that any visitor (or resident) should try at least once.

Despite its lowcountry roots, shrimp and grits has been embraced by Houstonians, for whom the dish is the perfect marriage of Gulf seafood, Cajun spices (which are found in our versions of the dish more often than not) and Southern grits. I'm willing to bet that most Houstonians would recognize the dish as something of our own creole creation before they'd recognize it as coming originally from South Carolina.

Perhaps because it's not a native dish, shrimp and grits gets poorly treated and battered around by clumsy cooks far too often in Houston. Ideally, it's a dish that's prepared and presented very simply -- it's only a few shrimp and a couple spoonfuls of cooked hominy, after all. Instead, I've witnessed incarnations of the stuff that range from disgustingly baroque (truffles don't belong on everything) to mystifyingly cooked (grits should never resemble congee nor ready-mix) to woefully bare-bones (simple is best, but you do have to at least salt the grits and add some butter to them).

Not so at Shade, where Claire Smith has been turning out impeccable shrimp and grits in her own signature style for years. I love that her shrimp don't come swimming in a bowl of grits, but are rather presented on their own. An ample serving of grits accompanies them should you decide to mix them -- which I do recommend -- but the parts work well separately too.

In true Texas style, the shrimp at Shade are served fried to a golden brown, sweet and plump under their crunchy batter. They rest on top of a bed of Frank's Red Hot sauce that offers a nod to lowcountry cuisine with its vinegar tang, while the buttery grits offset the spice that the dark orange sauce offers up.

And in the grits themselves, you'll find bacon and cheese -- which could, again, border on baroque -- but Shade shows just enough restraint when adding the extra ingredients, making the grits cheeky instead of overly cheesy. And the best part of all? You can have a dish all to yourself for only $10 during Shade's excellent happy hour.

The list so far:

No. 100: Chili cheese mac at Jus' Mac No. 99: Texas turkey sandwich at Spec's No. 98: Custard at Petite Sweets No. 97: Caprichos mixtos at Taqueria Monterrey Chiquito No. 96: Pineapple-wasabi burger at Lankford Grocery No. 95: Farmer's MKT Pizza at Phoenicia's MKT Bar No. 94: Potatoes at Money Cat Brunch No. 93: Breakfast tacos at Sunrise Taquito No. 92: Hot dog at Tacos D.F. No. 91: Avocado gelato at Frozen Cafe No. 90: Chicken sandwich at JerryBuilt Homegrown Burgers No. 89: Beer-battered asparagus at Hearsay No. 88: Honey Badger omelet at Kraftsmen Cafe No. 87: Pastelitos de carne at El Jalapeño No. 86: Pancakes at Union Kitchen No. 85: Wild boar and crab pizza at Boheme No. 84: Breakfast croissant at BB Donuts No. 83: Pretzel at Anvil Bar & Refuge No. 82: Short rib sandwich at Shepherd Park Draught House No. 81: Grilled shrimp po-boy at Pappadeaux No. 80: Dahi puri at Shiv Sagar No. 79: Aporreado at Los Corrales No. 78: Oxtail francobolli at Aldo's Cucina Italiana No. 77: Tonkotsu at Cafe Kubo's No. 76: Spinach danish from Angela's Oven No. 75: Pupusas at El Petate No. 74: Pheasant dog at Sammy's Wild Game Grill No. 73: X-Tudo burger at Friends Pizzeria No. 72: Esparragos gratinados at Tintos No. 71: Gua bao at Yummy Kitchen No. 70: Geisha dog at Happy Endings No. 69: Oyster po-boy and gumbo at Goode Co. Seafood No. 68: Ceviche at Sirena Seafood No. 67: Caldo de mariscos at Taqueria Arandas No. 66: Banana pudding at Pizzitola's No. 65: Fried catfish and gumbo at Cafe-A-La No. 64: Soft-shell crabs at Banana Leaf No. 63: Macaroni and cheese at Vic & Anthony's Steakhouse No. 62: Torta burger at El Gran Malo No. 61: Black bean burger at Ziggy's No. 60: Parillada at Pampa Grill No. 59: Peanut butter and jalapeño jelly burger at Wicked Whisk No. 58: Eggplant involtini at Giacomo's Cibo e Vino No. 57: Lone Star dog at James Coney Island No. 56: Sushi at Sushi Miyagi No. 55: Palestinian chicken at Al Aseel No. 54: Roast beef sandwich at Local Foods No. 53: Mexico City plate at Molina's Cantina No. 52: Tacos at Brothers Taco House No. 51: Branzino at Lucio's BYOB No. 50: Beef sweetbreads at Feast No. 49: Golden Doomba Special at the Rice Box Truck No. 48: Malted waffle at City Cafe No. 47: Banh mi bo kho at Cafe TH No. 46: Chicken fried steak at Triple A No. 45: Larissa plate at Harry's No. 44: Spaghetti carbonara at Coppa Ristorante Italiano No. 43: Wings and grits at The Breakfast Klub No. 42: Frito pie at C&D Burger Shoppe No. 41: Pollo con mole at El Gallo de Jalisco No. 40: Fried avocado taco at H-Town StrEATs No. 39: Rigatoni in bolognese sauce at Paulie's No. 38: Chorizo kolaches at Peña's Donut Heaven No. 37: Sashimi at Dadami No. 36: Half-pound burger at benjy's No. 35: Fried chicken at Haven No. 34: Whole-fried speckled trout at Liberty Kitchen No. 33: Moules congolaise at Jeannine's Bistro No. 32: Pancakes at Fountain View Cafe No. 31: Pineapple with chile en polvo at Canino's No. 30: Fried chicken at Barbecue Inn No. 29: Dirty Burque at Green Seed Vegan No. 28: Egusi at Finger Licking Bukateria No. 27: Brisket and turkey at CorkScrew BBQ No. 26: Menudo at La Mexicana



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Shade

250 W. 19th St.
Houston, TX 77008

713-863-7500

www.shadeheights.com


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