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100 Favorite Dishes 2013-2014: No. 25, Chips and Queso at Fusion Taco

I could eat this as a meal. Or drink it. Mmm.
I could eat this as a meal. Or drink it. Mmm.
Photos by Kaitlin Steinberg

This year, leading up to our annual Menu of Menus® issue, Kaitlin Steinberg counts down her 100 favorite dishes as she eats her way through Houston. She'll compile a collection of the dishes she thinks are the most awesome, most creative and, of course, most delicious in town. It's a list of personal favorites, things she thinks any visitor or Houstonian ought to try at least once and dishes that seem particularly indicative of the ever-changing Houston foodscape.

"Are you sure you want queso, too?" asked Julia Sharaby, one of the chef/owners of Fusion Taco. "You ordered the nachos, and they have queso on them too."

"Yes," I replied firmly. "I want all the queso."

I've made it abundantly clear on this blog that I'm a queso snob. Not in the sense that I need only the finest ingredients in my queso--quite the contrary. Rather, there is a specific way I like my queso to taste, a specific texture, a specific mouthfeel. Any deviation, and I'm not interested.

I'm most often of the belief that the simple Velveeta + Ro*tel combo is pretty good. It needs little meddling. However, after discovering and then interrogating Sharaby about Fusion Taco's queso, I might change my tune.

The chips are ideal for dipping.
The chips are ideal for dipping.

It's still made with processed cheese, a fact Sharaby doesn't try to hide. And why should she, when she knows the queso is awesome? She does use a product that is of a higher quality than Velveeta, though. It's Golden Velvet, a Land O'Lakes product available only by wholesale. (And yes, I'm working on finding a chef in town who will secure me my own stock post-haste.)

Sharaby likes the Golden Velvet because it has less salt than Velveeta and because, frankly (it pains me to say this), it tastes more like cheese. It has a great texture, even once it starts firming up, and it's richer than most queso dips you find in restaurants. The secret to the richness is cream.

That's right, along with Golden Velvet, Sharaby adds cream, her homemade red salsa and pulverized chipotle peppers to the queso. I am also going to need to apologize to Ro*Tel now, because this mixture puts Ro*Tel to shame.

Now, chips and queso wouldn't be chips and queso without great chips as well, and Fusion Taco definitely delivers there. The chips are fried fresh as needed, so they're warm and crispy when you order them. They're made from the same thick corn tortillas that surround the tacos, and when fried they're substantial enough to hold a big ol' scoop of queso. Combine the two, and I'm in Tex-Mex heaven.

Sharaby jokingly called her queso "white trash fondue" when I ordered a glass of red wine to go with it, but this stuff is good enough to put even fondue to shame. Just don't tell Gruyère I said that.

See the full list of favorites on the next page.

 

The list so far: No. 26: Spicy Miso Ramen at Soma Sushi No. 27: Kim Cheese Fries at Coreanos No. 28: Fried Cauliflower at Roost No. 29: Caesar Wedge Salad at Provisions No. 30: Ice Cream in a Waffle Cone at Fat Cat Creamery No. 31: Cochito con Mole Xico at Hugo's No. 32: Carnitas at Molina's Cantina No. 33: Taleggio Pizza at Dolce Vita No. 34: Chiles de Padron Asados at Caracol No. 35: Morning Thali at Pondicheri No. 36: Fried Mini Fish at House of Bowls No. 37: Trompo Tacos at Taqueria La Macro No. 38: Spicy Tamale Plate at La Mexicana No. 39: Mum's Chicken Curry At The Queen Vic Pub No. 40: Canestri alla Funghi at Paulie's No. 41: Biscuit with Marmalade and Crème Fraîche at Blacksmith No. 42: Fried Oyster Po'Boy at Goode Company Seafood No. 43: Roasted Duck Red Curry at Morningside Thai No. 44: BBQ Pulled Wild Boar Sandwich at Sammy's Wild Game Grill No. 45: Guanciale Burger at Plonk No. 46: Parma 600 Pizza at Pizzeria Solario No. 47: CFC Deviled Eggs at Liberty Kitchen & Oyster Bar No. 48: The El Real Burger at El Real Tex-Mex Cafe No. 49: Custard Sandwich at Petite Sweets No. 50: Black Pepper Beer Lobster at Hai Cang Seafood Restaurant No. 51: Red Dragon Roll at Michiru Sushi No. 52: Fried Bananas Foster at Custom Confections No. 53: Bánh Canh Hue at Simply Pho No. 54: Kimchi Koagie at Koagie Hots No. 55: The Juicy Lucy Burger at Lowbrow No. 56: Eggplant Fries at Batanga No. 57: Macarons at Ganache Dessert Bar No. 58: Grilled Cheese at The Golden Grill No. 59: Baklava French Toast at Harry's Restaurant & Cafe No. 60: Patata e Funghi Pizza at Pizaro's No. 61: Old Fashioned Frito Pie at Armadillo Palace No. 62: Korean Spiced Brisket Plate at Revival Market No. 63: Bánh Mì at Les Givral's Sandwich and Cafe No. 64: Squirrel Master Burger at Cottonwood No. 65: Shorty Mac at H-Town StrEATS No. 66: Enchiladas de Mole at La Guadalupana No. 67: Bad Ass Hambur-Torta at Pistolero's No. 68: Green "Hurry Curry" at Nit Noi No. 69: Dozen Raw Oysters at Pappas Seafood No 70: Banana Split at Cloud 10 Creamery No. 71: Lazy Lane Frites at Brasserie 19 No. 72: Chicken Pot Pie at Kenny & Ziggy's No. 73: Chili Cheese Mac from Jus' Mac No. 74: Taco al Pastor at Taco Keto No. 75: 'Date With a Pig' at Sparrow Bar + Cookshop No. 76: The Heights Burger at Gratifi No. 77: Lamb Lollipops at Américas No. 78: Mortadella Sandwich at 13 Celsius No. 79: Carnissima Pizza at Coppa Osteria No. 80: The Marie Laveau Sandwich at Sandy Witch No. 81: Catfish and Grits at The Breakfast Klub No. 82: Grilled Ahi Tuna at St. John's Fire No. 83: Lobster Roll at Maine-ly Sandwiches No. 84: Greek Burger at Hubcap Grill No. 85: Pork Tamales at Irma's No. 86: Ham, Egg & Cheese Crepe at Melange Creperie No. 87: Crab Daddy Bao at Fat Bao No. 88: Sesame Soft Balls at Golden Dim Sum No. 89: Porchetta e Fagioli at Giacomo's Cibo e Vino No. 90: Uncle Daryl's Cake at The Chocolate Bar No. 91: Lobster Cake Benedict at Sorrel Urban Bistro No. 92: Homeroom at Bernie's Burger Bus No. 93: Vuelve a la Vida Soup at Connie's Seafood No. 94: Foie Gras Mac & Cheese at BRC Gastropub No. 95: Sweet Potato Gnocchi at Brooklyn Athletic Club No. 96: Chicken and Waffles at Adair Kitchen No. 97: Soft Pretzel from Mongoose Versus Cobra No. 98: Bulgogi Tacos with Kimchi at Chi'Lantro No. 99: Almond Croissant at Phoenicia No. 100: Bangkok Fries at Boheme


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