100 Favorite Dishes 2013-2014: No. 40, Canestri alla Funghi at Paulie's
The canestri alla funghi at Paulie's is so good, you won't want to share.
Photo by Christina Uticone
This year, leading up to our annual Menu of Menus® issue, Kaitlin Steinberg counts down her 100 favorite dishes as she eats her way through Houston. She'll compile a collection of the dishes she thinks are the most awesome, most creative and, of course, most delicious in town. It's a list of personal favorites, things she thinks any visitor or Houstonian ought to try at least once and dishes that seem particularly indicative of the ever-changing Houston foodscape.
I'm pretty sure the regular serving of pasta at Paulie's is meant to be shared. It's a rather hefty plate of food no matter which dish you order, so it lends itself well to being spilt between two people with some side salads.
That said, I've been known to devour an entire regular-sized serving of canestri alla funghi all on my own. And rather than feeling stuffed to the gills when I finish, I have a great sense of accomplishment, like I've just vanquished a worthy opponent.
And man, is that divine dish ever worthy.
All of the pasta at Paulie's is made fresh in-house, by a pasta extruder that pops out the prettiest little canestri and bucatini you've ever seen. The fresh pasta is, of course, part of what makes this dish so good. The rest is the sauce and the two varieties of earthy mushrooms that endow the pasta with a beautiful, rustic fragrance.
The dish makes use of both crimini and shiitake mushrooms for a slight variance in the flavor profile. The crimini mushrooms provide a soothing, mellow taste, while the shiitake mushrooms have a meaty, slightly sour umami flavor that permeates the sauce.
This story continues on the next page.
The pasta extruder makes fresh canestri every day.
Photo courtesy Paulie's
The sauce has a cream base with a bit of funky-sweet marsala wine, sage and a whole lotta garlic. The garlic isn't overpowering, though; it manages to be front and center without detracting from the subtle sage and soft cream evident in every bite.
In many mushroom and pasta dishes, the fungi and the noodles take on a similar texture, making them difficult to distinguish when they're all slathered in sauce. At Paulie's, though, the mushrooms maintain a chewy bite, and the pasta is cooked to an ideal al dente. There's just the right amount of sauce, too. Not so little that each bite contains more dough flavor than anything else, and not so much that the delicate canestri curls are swimming in cream.
The canestri alla funghi is a perfectly balanced blend of richness and earthiness, drawn together with just a hint of marsala. Go ahead and order the small portion if you want. But I guarantee you'll be more satisfied with a big serving of pasta all to yourself.
The list so far: No. 41: Biscuit with Marmalade and Crème Fraîche at Blacksmith No. 42: Fried Oyster Po'Boy at Goode Company Seafood No. 43: Roasted Duck Red Curry at Morningside Thai No. 44: BBQ Pulled Wild Boar Sandwich at Sammy's Wild Game Grill No. 45: Guanciale Burger at Plonk No. 46: Parma 600 Pizza at Pizzeria Solario No. 47: CFC Deviled Eggs at Liberty Kitchen & Oyster Bar No. 48: The El Real Burger at El Real Tex-Mex Cafe No. 49: Custard Sandwich at Petite Sweets No. 50: Black Pepper Beer Lobster at Hai Cang Seafood Restaurant No. 51: Red Dragon Roll at Michiru Sushi No. 52: Fried Bananas Foster at Custom Confections No. 53: Bánh Canh Hue at Simply Pho No. 54: Kimchi Koagie at Koagie Hots No. 55: The Juicy Lucy Burger at Lowbrow No. 56: Eggplant Fries at Batanga No. 57: Macarons at Ganache Dessert Bar No. 58: Grilled Cheese at The Golden Grill No. 59: Baklava French Toast at Harry's Restaurant & Cafe No. 60: Patata e Funghi Pizza at Pizaro's No. 61: Old Fashioned Frito Pie at Armadillo Palace No. 62: Korean Spiced Brisket Plate at Revival Market No. 63: Bánh Mì at Les Givral's Sandwich and Cafe No. 64: Squirrel Master Burger at Cottonwood No. 65: Shorty Mac at H-Town StrEATS No. 66: Enchiladas de Mole at La Guadalupana No. 67: Bad Ass Hambur-Torta at Pistolero's No. 68: Green "Hurry Curry" at Nit Noi No. 69: Dozen Raw Oysters at Pappas Seafood No 70: Banana Split at Cloud 10 Creamery No. 71: Lazy Lane Frites at Brasserie 19 No. 72: Chicken Pot Pie at Kenny & Ziggy's No. 73: Chili Cheese Mac from Jus' Mac No. 74: Taco al Pastor at Taco Keto No. 75: 'Date With a Pig' at Sparrow Bar + Cookshop No. 76: The Heights Burger at Gratifi No. 77: Lamb Lollipops at Américas No. 78: Mortadella Sandwich at 13 Celsius No. 79: Carnissima Pizza at Coppa Osteria No. 80: The Marie Laveau Sandwich at Sandy Witch No. 81: Catfish and Grits at The Breakfast Klub No. 82: Grilled Ahi Tuna at St. John's Fire No. 83: Lobster Roll at Maine-ly Sandwiches No. 84: Greek Burger at Hubcap Grill No. 85: Pork Tamales at Irma's No. 86: Ham, Egg & Cheese Crepe at Melange Creperie No. 87: Crab Daddy Bao at Fat Bao No. 88: Sesame Soft Balls at Golden Dim Sum No. 89: Porchetta e Fagioli at Giacomo's Cibo e Vino No. 90: Uncle Daryl's Cake at The Chocolate Bar No. 91: Lobster Cake Benedict at Sorrel Urban Bistro No. 92: Homeroom at Bernie's Burger Bus No. 93: Vuelve a la Vida Soup at Connie's Seafood No. 94: Foie Gras Mac & Cheese at BRC Gastropub No. 95: Sweet Potato Gnocchi at Brooklyn Athletic Club No. 96: Chicken and Waffles at Adair Kitchen No. 97: Soft Pretzel from Mongoose Versus Cobra No. 98: Bulgogi Tacos with Kimchi at Chi'Lantro No. 99: Almond Croissant at Phoenicia No. 100: Bangkok Fries at Boheme
Get the Food & Drink Newsletter
Our weekly guide to Houston dining includes food news and reviews, as well as dining events and interviews with chefs and restaurant owners.