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100 Favorite Dishes 2013: No. 100, Bangkok Fries at Boheme

And the light of heaven shown down upon the fries, and it was good.
And the light of heaven shown down upon the fries, and it was good.
Photo by Kaitlin Steinberg

Every year, leading up to our annual Best of Houston issue, we count down our 100 favorite dishes. It's a list of 100 of the most awesome, most creative and, of course, most delicious dishes in Houston. It's a list of our personal favorites, dishes we think any visitor or native to Houston ought to try at least once and dishes that seem particularly indicative of the ever-changing Houston food-scape. It's a list to drool over. Enjoy!

I'll just come out and say it: I'm a sucker for french fries. Having grown up in Corpus Christi, I'm particularly attached to Whataburger's thin, overly salted, sometimes perfectly crispy fries. I admit, they're hit or miss at most fast food joints, but some restaurants have also perfected the shoestring fry and added some more...shall we say...upscale ingredients to elevate your basic fried potato.

While Dishcrawling last week, I was introduced to Boheme Cafe & Wine Bar's Bangkok Fries, and I can now safely say I'm addicted. Boheme has taken the bar food concept and brought to it a new level of refinement and attention to flavor. The food is a tribute to the intersection of culture in Houston, and paired with a blood orange margarita or the signature Bohemian (rum, jasmine liqueur, lemon juice and agave nectar), it's the perfect way to end a day antiquing and people watching in Montrose.

Boheme offers two fry variations, but the Bangkok is the more exciting option. Crispy shoestring fries are topped with sweet, crunchy charbroiled pork, a bit of vinegary hoisin sauce, homemade yellow curry mayo, cilantro and crushed sesame rods. Oh, and sriracha. Lots of sriracha.

You get something slightly different with every bite: A jolt of spicy sriracha here, caramel-y pork there, acidic vinegar. The fries are substantial enough to hold up under the weight of the toppings, but not so thick that you get a mouthful of mostly potato. I recommend asking for a side of sriracha and hoisin and dipping the fries for even more heat.

One serving of fries can probably feed two people, but if you can't finish them all, don't worry. Just take them home. Seriously. I know fries don't often keep well, but I snagged a to-go box for some of these babies after the Dishcrawl, and they were just as good (if a little cold) the next day.

So, I'm sorry Whataburger with your inconsistent fries and spicy ketchup. I've found a new friend, and its name is Bangkok.

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miles
Boheme Cafe & Wine Bar

307 Fairview
Houston, TX 77006

713-529-1099

www.barboheme.com


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