100 Favorite Houston Dishes 2015, No. 49: Charcuterie at Kris Bistro

An assortment of charcuterie and accompaniments at Kris Bistro. This particular assortment is house-cured ham, cold smoked duck, lamb merguez, Bavarian-style beef salumi, Leon-style pork and liver salumi.
An assortment of charcuterie and accompaniments at Kris Bistro. This particular assortment is house-cured ham, cold smoked duck, lamb merguez, Bavarian-style beef salumi, Leon-style pork and liver salumi.
Photo by Phaedra Cook

Phaedra Cook is eating her way through Houston and counting down her 100 favorite dishes of 2015. It's a collection of personal favorites that is also indicative of Houston dining. It's a scene where a vast range of dishes coexist: highbrow and lowbrow; local and international; cheap and expensive; modern cuisine and beloved tenets — and everything in between.

Kris Bistro is Houston’s best-hidden French restaurant. If you didn’t know it was there, you’d never find it. The fine-dining place is located inside of Culinary Institute LeNôtre, the respected French culinary school. On the outside the structure looks like a rather plain office building, but Kris Bistro itself, all done up in wood, glass and big hanging lights with red shades, is quite nice.

Students have opportunities to work here and hone their skills, and one skill they might pick up is how to make charcuterie. The restaurant’s namesake, chef Kris Jakob, has long maintained an in-house program that produces dense, smoky strips of duck pastrami, cured hams, coppa, salami and other dried sausages.

The offerings change from time to time depending on which meats have aged long enough and are ready to serve, other than the duck pastrami and ham, which are always available. When they do, they might arrive on a big wheeled cart specially made to hold a whole ham in place so it can be cut into paper-thin slices on demand. Or the meat may be brought to the table clipped onto a small rack.

Since it’s part of a school and is itself a learning facility, the prices at Kris Bistro tend to be very competitive, too. The Charcuteries Maison costs $15 for a few slices each of four different meats. Be sure to check the reasonable beer and wine list for something appropriate to drink alongside. 

The List of Top 100 Dishes of 2015 So Far:

No. 50, Cauliflower Steak at Backstreet Cafe
No. 51, Telur Balado at Rice Bowl II
No. 52, Green Curry at Asia Market Restaurant
No. 53, Foie Gras Breakfast at Triniti
No. 54, Korean Fried Chicken at ToreOre at Super H Mart
No. 55, Bulgogi Bibimbap at BiBiJo Express at Super H Mart
No. 56, Vegetable Plate at Hugo's
No. 57, The Cured Plate at Revival Market
No. 58, Simply Grilled Fish at Ibiza
No. 59, Tonkotsu Black Ramen at JINYA Houston
No. 60, The Rancor Burger at The Petrol Station
No. 61, Heritage Sampler Platter at Rudi Lechner's
No. 62, Oxtails at Le' Pam's House Of Creole
No. 63, The 420 Slice at Pi Pizza Truck
No. 64, Frenchy's Fried Chicken On Scott Street
No. 65, 3 Pig Mac & Cheese at Urban Eats
No. 66, Pucchia Pugliese Foggia at Sud Italia
No. 67, Triple-Smoked Pastrami On Rye At Kenny & Ziggy's
No. 68, Fume Pizza at Pizaro's Pizza Napoletana
No. 69, Banh Mi Thap Cam at Café TH
No. 70, Caramelized Onion Soup at Mockingbird Bistro
No. 71, Milk Chocolate Stout Malt at Fat Cat Creamery
No. 72, Pork Ribs at Roegels Barbecue Co. 
No. 73, Carrot Pizza at Weights + Measures
No. 74, Jalisco Wings at El Big Bad
No. 75, Mussels at Cafe Brussels
No. 76, Cresta di Gallo at The Pass & Provisions
No. 77, Beef Fajitas at El Real Tex-Mex 
No. 78, Chicken Tikka Masala from the Tandoori Nite truck
No. 79, Chocolates at Cacao & Cardamom
No, 80, Hummus Supreme at Al's Quick Stop
No. 81, Red Oil Dumplings at Mala Sichuan
No. 82, Tex-Cajun Fries at BB's Café
No. 83, Mac & Cheese at The Oceanaire Seafood Room
No. 84, The Principal Burger at Bernie's Burger Bus
No. 85, Hunter's Honey-Roasted Duck at Brennan's Of Houston
No. 86, Fish & Chips at Good Dog Houston
No. 87, Sausage, Egg & Cheese Biscuit at Blacksmith
No. 88, "Saucy Balls" At Brooklyn Meatball Company
No. 89, Perry's Steakhouse/Perry & Sons Pork Chop
No. 90, General Tso's Chicken from The Rice Box
No. 91, Eggs, Refried Beans, Hash Browns and Hugo's Sauce at 59 Diner
No. 92, Shipley Do-Nuts Plain Glazed 
No. 93, Housemade Bologney at Public Services Wine & Whisky
No. 94, Bo Luc Lac at Cheno's (formerly Chino's) Fast Food
No. 95, Combo #5 at Soto's Cantina
No. 96, Carnitas Salad At Chipotle
No. 97, Pickled Shrimp At Punk's Simple Southern Food
No. 98, Lobster Roll At Maine-Ly Sandwiches
No. 99, Chili-Cheese Coneys At JCI Grill
No. 100, Corned Beef Hash And Eggs At House Of Pies

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Kris Bistro & Wine Lounge

7070 Allensby St.
Houston, TX 77022



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