100 Favorite Houston Dishes, No. 29: Shrimp & Pork Xiu Mai at Fung’s Kitchen

Shrimp and pork dumplings at Fung's Kitchen
Shrimp and pork dumplings at Fung's Kitchen
Photo by Chuck Cook Photography

Phaedra Cook is eating her way through Houston and counting down her 100 favorite dishes of 2015. It's a collection of personal favorites that is also indicative of Houston dining. It's a scene where a vast range of dishes coexist: highbrow and lowbrow; local and international; cheap and expensive; modern cuisine and beloved tenets — and everything in between.

By 11:15 a.m. on the weekends, Fung’s Kitchen is already full of diners for its popular dim sum service. It starts at 10 a.m. and servers will continue trundling carts loaded with snack-size servings of classic Chinese cuisine through the massive dining room until 3 p.m. (Word to the wise, though: It’s always better to arrive for dim sum earlier rather than later for the best service and selection.)

Dim sum is like the Chinese equivalent of English high tea, except instead of crumpets, jam and little triangular sandwiches with the crusts removed, there are sesame buns filled with sweet red bean paste, duck feet and fried rice with Chinese sausage.  

I get the shrimp and pork xiu mai every time. These are called “Fung’s Steamed Shrimp & Pork Dumplings” on the menu. (There are many variations on the English spelling, including shu mai, shumai, shaomai and siu mai.)

The point of dim sum is not to obsess on one dish but to have a variety of food on the table.
The point of dim sum is not to obsess on one dish but to have a variety of food on the table.
Photo by Chuck Cook Photography

A warm tin comes with four dumplings, and sometimes — even if I only have one companion — we might get two. I just can’t get enough of them. These are among the most flavorful and heartiest of dumplings. They're essentially big meatballs of ground shrimp and pork enhanced with dark slivers of shiitake mushrooms. They're enrobed in delicate wrappers, steamed and garnished with just a bit of grated carrot for color.

Of course, the fun of dim sum is not to stick with one dish but to load the table with several. Before the end of the meal, invariably my table also ends up with shrimp dumplings both steamed and fried; steamed vegetable dumplings; Chinese broccoli with oyster sauce; and addictive little tarts filled with egg custard. If I had to give up something, though, it would not be the shrimp and pork xiu mai. 

The List of Top 100 Dishes of 2015 So Far:

No. 30, Fried Chicken & Waffle at The Breakfast Klub
No. 31, Risotto with Veal and Parmesean at Mascalzone
No. 32, Burnt Ends at Southern Goods
No. 33, Tom Kha Gai at Kanomwan
No. 34, Jumbo Lump Crab Cake at Vic & Anthony's
No. 35, Pozole at El Big Bad
No. 36, Bacon Mochi at Izakaya
No. 37, Nasi Lemak at Banana Leaf
No. 38, Make Your Own Gyro at Helen Greek Food & Wine
No. 39, Spicy Blue Cheese Burger at Alamo Drafthouse
No. 40, Pizza at Dolce Vita
No. 41, Grilled Shrimp at La Grange
No. 42, Duck With Two Moles at Arnaldo Richards' Picos
No. 43, Stuffed Pepperoncini at Anvil Bar & Refuge
No. 44, LH Gumbo at Holley's Seafood Kitchen & Oyster Bar
No. 45, KG's Double-Brined Cast Iron Chicken at Harold's
No. 46, Ceviche Mixto at Andes Café 
No. 47, Sunday Gravy at Liberty Kitchen & BRC
No. 48, Tonkotsu Ramen at Tiger Den
No. 49, Charcuterie at Kris Bistro
No. 50, Cauliflower Steak at Backstreet Cafe
No. 51, Telur Balado at Rice Bowl II
No. 52, Green Curry at Asia Market Restaurant
No. 53, Foie Gras Breakfast at Triniti
No. 54, Korean Fried Chicken at ToreOre at Super H Mart
No. 55, Bulgogi Bibimbap at BiBiJo Express at Super H Mart
No. 56, Vegetable Plate at Hugo's
No. 57, The Cured Plate at Revival Market
No. 58, Simply Grilled Fish at Ibiza
No. 59, Tonkotsu Black Ramen at JINYA Houston
No. 60, The Rancor Burger at The Petrol Station
No. 61, Heritage Sampler Platter at Rudi Lechner's
No. 62, Oxtails at Le' Pam's House Of Creole
No. 63, The 420 Slice at Pi Pizza Truck
No. 64, Frenchy's Fried Chicken On Scott Street
No. 65, 3 Pig Mac & Cheese at Urban Eats
No. 66, Pucchia Pugliese Foggia at Sud Italia
No. 67, Triple-Smoked Pastrami On Rye At Kenny & Ziggy's
No. 68, Fume Pizza at Pizaro's Pizza Napoletana
No. 69, Banh Mi Thap Cam at Café TH
No. 70, Caramelized Onion Soup at Mockingbird Bistro
No. 71, Milk Chocolate Stout Malt at Fat Cat Creamery
No. 72, Pork Ribs at Roegels Barbecue Co. 
No. 73, Carrot Pizza at Weights + Measures
No. 74, Jalisco Wings at El Big Bad
No. 75, Mussels at Cafe Brussels
No. 76, Cresta di Gallo at The Pass & Provisions
No. 77, Beef Fajitas at El Real Tex-Mex 
No. 78, Chicken Tikka Masala from the Tandoori Nite truck
No. 79, Chocolates at Cacao & Cardamom
No, 80, Hummus Supreme at Al's Quick Stop
No. 81, Red Oil Dumplings at Mala Sichuan
No. 82, Tex-Cajun Fries at BB's Café
No. 83, Mac & Cheese at The Oceanaire Seafood Room
No. 84, The Principal Burger at Bernie's Burger Bus
No. 85, Hunter's Honey-Roasted Duck at Brennan's Of Houston
No. 86, Fish & Chips at Good Dog Houston
No. 87, Sausage, Egg & Cheese Biscuit at Blacksmith
No. 88, "Saucy Balls" At Brooklyn Meatball Company
No. 89, Perry's Steakhouse/Perry & Sons Pork Chop
No. 90, General Tso's Chicken from The Rice Box
No. 91, Eggs, Refried Beans, Hash Browns and Hugo's Sauce at 59 Diner
No. 92, Shipley Do-Nuts Plain Glazed 
No. 93, Housemade Bologney at Public Services Wine & Whisky
No. 94, Bo Luc Lac at Cheno's (formerly Chino's) Fast Food
No. 95, Combo #5 at Soto's Cantina
No. 96, Carnitas Salad At Chipotle
No. 97, Pickled Shrimp At Punk's Simple Southern Food
No. 98, Lobster Roll At Maine-Ly Sandwiches
No. 99, Chili-Cheese Coneys At JCI Grill
No. 100, Corned Beef Hash And Eggs At House Of Pies

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Fung's Kitchen

7320 Southwest Freeway
Houston, TX 77074

713-779-2288

www.eatatfungs.com


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