The oxtails at Alfreda's Cafeteria (5101 Almeda, 713-523-6462) are served as a "meat and three" protein with three sides, plus old-fashioned corn bread. There's a special technique to removing all of the meat from the well-cooked oxtails at Alfreda's. Usually, all but one stubborn piece of meat will already have fallen off the bone when it's served. If it's a small bone, pick it up with your fork, insert it into your mouth and let your tongue work its way all around the bone, turning and sucking at the same time. Repeat as often as necessary, then return the bone to the plate via your fork. For larger bones, suck while holding the bone between your fingers. At Alfreda's, there are at least ten soulful side dishes. Favorites include collard greens, corn bread dressing and sweet yams.