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Breakfast

An Afternoon Breakfast at Ziggy's

After a very long week, nothing makes me happier than sleeping in as long as possible and then eating a leisurely breakfast around mid-day. Unhappily, it's difficult to find breakfast past, say, noon if you don't want to eat at IHOP or Denny's. And I don't.

Lo and behold, Ziggy's (302 Fairview, 832-519-0476) has started offering breakfast until 3 p.m. on the weekends (and until 11 a.m. on weekdays). Thank God.

I stopped by there last Friday on a rare day off and soon found myself enjoying a very relaxed breakfast on the patio in the sunshine, under a cheerful yellow umbrella, next to a lavender bush, feeling for all the world like I never wanted to leave. Much of that feeling was due the atmosphere on a brilliantly gorgeous December day, but a lot of it was thanks to Ziggy's bacon.

Yes, its bacon.

Not many people would automatically think of Ziggy's -- a traditionally health-conscious, crunchy type of place -- as having great bacon. That's why I ordered veggie sausage along with my plate of eggs and pancakes that day.

But my breakfast companion's honey-pepper bacon -- crispy strips drizzle with honey and dusted with a light touch of freshly ground black pepper -- was so good that we both ate it all before I even had a chance to take any pictures of it.

And although my eggs and coffee -- and, to be fair, my crispy veggie sausage that tasted like real, pan-fried sausage -- were all good, the pancakes and my dining companion's Belgian waffle were disasters. A lovely, fluffy texture was offset by a pungently sour taste: The kitchen had clearly left out the baking soda by accident. Great for "sourdough"-style pancakes; not great for the regular kind.

Despite that, we were both so impressed by the bacon and the lazy afternoon breakfast, we vowed to become repeat offenders, er, patrons. Maybe the baking soda will make an appearance next time, too.

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Katharine Shilcutt