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  • Article

    The Xiu Mai Super Bowl - A new champion in the dim sum game

    It was a little after 11 on a Sunday morning when I first dropped by Fung's Kitchen to check out their new dim sum service. I was amazed from the second I opened the front door. There were steam tables and glass-doored refrigerators along one wall th...

    by Robb Walsh on January 27, 2005
  • Article

    Tex-Mex Sizzler

    With all the new Tex-Mex and Mexican eateries opening inside the Loop in the past few years -- Hugo's, Maria Selma and Berryhill, to name a few -- we sometimes tend to forget old favorites. Jalapeos Restaurant (2702 Kirby Drive, 713-524-1668) has be...

    by Marene Gustin on January 27, 2005
  • Article

    The Fickle Fez - A cute but erratic Middle Eastern cafe on Westheimer

    Sitting out on the patio of La Fendee Mediterranean Grill under blue skies on a 70-degree January afternoon, we toasted the perfect weather with iced tea. The cute little cafe with the big wooden deck and the red fez logo is a welcome addition to the...

    by Robb Walsh on January 20, 2005
  • Article

    Stiff Mussel

    Feeling limp? Then perhaps the almejas a la Viagra ($4.25 for six mussels) at Sabor! (5712 Bellaire Boulevard, 713-667-6001) are just the thing to stimulate your taste buds. The whimsical name of this dish at this new Central American restaurant is c...

    by Paul Galvani on January 20, 2005
  • Article

    Cajun, Twice Removed - Great food, lousy atmosphere? Get it to go!

    The thick fillet of salmon served at Cajun Town Cafe was broiled until it was pleasantly charred along the edges. There are five toppings to choose from. I went with No. 3, which included small but juicy shrimp and fat crawfish tails in a creamy wine...

    by Robb Walsh on January 13, 2005
  • Article

    Pig Heaven

    If you're tired of the same old burger or chicken sandwich, then the breaded pork tenderloin sandwich ($4.95) at Heights Camphouse BBQ (2820 White Oak Drive, 713-861-2033) may be exactly what you're looking for. "It's a Northern thing," says the mana...

    by Paul Galvani on January 13, 2005
  • Article

    Paella Paydirt - A Spanish tapas restaurant with nice rice

    You can taste the flavor of shrimp, chicken, Spanish chorizo, calamari and saffron in each grain of rice in the paella. Rioja, the new Spanish restaurant on Westheimer at Kirkwood, calls itself a tapas restaurant, but the main attraction here is real...

    by Robb Walsh on January 6, 2005
  • Article

    You Wascally Wabbit, You

    There's nothing quite like a steaming bowl of rabbit stew on a rainy winter's day. And at new restaurant Bistro Calais (2811 Bammel Lane, 713-529-1314), chef Michael Dei Maggi serves up the wascally wabbit in his ragot de lapin au vin rouge ($17). H...

    by Marene Gustin on January 6, 2005
  • Article

    Le Grand Cheesecake - The Vegas version of Venice, or Vienna, or someplace

    The soaring facade of Grand Lux Cafe looks like the outside of one of those pseudo-Italian Las Vegas casinos. As you drive down Westheimer, an enormous painting inside plays peek-a-boo through three giant round windows mounted several stories above t...

    by Robb Walsh on December 30, 2004
  • Article

    Fish Bowl

    Somehow "fish stew" ($10.99) doesn't sound half as appetizing as peixada brasileira, its Portuguese translation, found on the menu of Emporio Brazilian Cafe (12288 Westheimer, 281-293-7442). But no matter what you call it, it's a heartwarming meal ...

    by Paul Galvani on December 30, 2004
  • Article

    Sunday Chaat - North meets South on NASA Road 1

    The host at Annapurna South Indian Cuisine on NASA Road 1 brings some puffy pooris to our table. Served hot out of the oven, the paper-thin flatbreads look like inflated pancakes. I tear one apart and use some of the flimsy skin to wrap up a bite of ...

    by Robb Walsh on December 23, 2004
  • Article

    Luscious Liquid lunch

    Otilia's Mexican Restaurant's (7710 Long Point, 713-681-7203) cream of poblano soup ($5.50) with a michelada ($3.75) may well be the perfect lunch combination. The soup, which is the color of a good guacamole, is velvety-smooth and a little tangy, wi...

    by Paul Galvani on December 23, 2004
  • Article

    Risqu, Medium Rare - Steak and tits -- how can you go wrong at the Strip House?

    My fork and knife hover over a slice of double-cut New York strip "Pittsburgh." It's the best thing on the menu at the Strip House, the new downtown steak house that's decorated with naughty pictures. The double-cut steak is a monstrous 32 ounces, ...

    by Robb Walsh on December 16, 2004
  • Article

    The Great Gadsby - One of Hollywood's top cooking stars is moving to Houston

    Robert Gadsby, long considered one of the most creative chefs in Los Angeles, opened his new restaurant, No, in the Houston Omni Hotel in mid-November. And in a surprise move, Gadsby announced he is pulling up roots in Tinseltown and relocating to S...

    by Robb Walsh on December 16, 2004
  • Article

    Wellington Wins

    At last fall has arrived, and appetites have turned to heartier, holiday-style fare. For a real old-time feast, we suggest that favorite of former president Nixon, beef Wellington. At The Brownstone (2736 Virginia, 713-520-5666), the beef Wellington ...

    by Marene Gustin on December 16, 2004
  • Article

    The Next Chef Boyardee - Wolfgang Puck, creator of Spago in Hollywood, has lost control of his name

    The nine-inch spinach-and-mushroom pizza at Wolfgang Puck Express comes on a thin, crisp crust. Along with the mushroom slices, there's mozzarella, Gorgonzola and Parmesan cheese, a pesto sauce, a few tomato slices and fresh basil. Fresh spinach is s...

    by Robb Walsh on December 9, 2004
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Show of hands, please: Who's ordered a salad because the menu said it came with "goat cheese," only to poke through a hedge of green searching for a nickel-sized medallion of the stuff? Ever felt that your salad should instead be called "goat cheese ...

    by Carol Rust on December 9, 2004
  • Article

    Grande Plans - Houston's most famous chef talks about prostate cancer, turning 50 and what's next for Cafe Annie

    It's Friday night, and the most fashionable restaurant in Houston is full to capacity. Glowing in his chef's whites, Cafe Annie's head chef and co-owner, Robert Del Grande, stands beside a table of VIPs including Houston Symphony conductor Hans Graf....

    by Robb Walsh on December 2, 2004
  • Article

    Eat Mi - Houston has some of the best Vietnamese noodle houses in the country

    Winding the curly yellow egg noodles around the red barbecued pork slivers with my chopsticks, I put together a large bite and raise it to my mouth. The noodles are wonderfully chewy, and the pork is tangy with sweet and sour barbecue sauce. Chives a...

    by Robb Walsh on December 2, 2004
  • Article

    Hangover Help - Romano's Italian Restaurant

    So you overdid it last night, and you're craving some spicy grease. Instead of seeking the same old Tex-Mex cure, drag your queasy stomach, throbbing head and fuzzy tongue over to Romano's Italian Restaurant (1528 West Gray, 713-526-1182) for a serio...

    by Anna Ossenfort on December 2, 2004
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