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  • Article

    Dish

    As Dacapo's Turns In the beginning (in 1994) there was Dacapo's Cafe in the Heights. It was, and is, a cozy bakery-cum-deli, the brainchild of four partners: twins Lisa and Teresa Biggerstaff, and Leticia Guzman and Kirk Graham. Within a yea...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on October 8, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Gripes with Gourmet The October issue of Gourmet magazine heralds the results of its third-annual readers' choice restaurant survey. "North America's Best Restaurants!" trumpets the company press release. More than 500 restaurants made the final...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on October 1, 1998
  • Article

    Taking No Chances - Cafe Chino plays it safe

    Visiting Cafe Chino for the first time, we were seated in front of a massive and handsome floral arrangement containing some very substantial lengths of bamboo. It made one grateful that Houston didn't experience earthquakes because, had the earth mo...

    by Eric Lawlor on October 1, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    In Italy, a bowl of minestrone is as good as a road map. If the soup contains lots of tomatoes, you're in the Italian south; if it contains beans, you're in the central region; and if it contains rice, you're in the north. If it should happen that yo...

    by Eric Lawlor on October 1, 1998
  • Article

    Readers' Choice Winners

    Eats & Drinks Best appetizer: Cajun egg rolls, Houston Brewery, 6224 Richmond, 953-0101 Best beer: Houston Brewery, 6224 Richmond, 953-0101 Best bloody mary: Mama's Cafe, 6019 Westheimer, 266-8514 Best breakfast burrito:...

    on September 24, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    All Wet First fire, then flood -- what's next for restaurateur-slash-developer Tilman Fertitta: swarms of locusts? His troubles began in February with the two-alarm blaze that closed Willie G's, the popular seafood outlet on Post Oak Boulevard. T...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on September 24, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Don't go looking for Tikka in your world atlas. I did, and couldn't find it. There's a very good reason for that. Tikka is not a place. It's a fillet -- as in lamb tikka and chicken tikka. I owe my atlas an apology. I should never have thrown it acro...

    by Eric Lawlor on September 24, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Hooked on Hatches South of Albuquerque and north of Las Cruces lies the little New Mexican town of Hatch. Snuggled alongside the Rio Grande, shadowed by the Mimbres Mountains, the Hatch valley is home to some of the best green chile peppers you'l...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on September 17, 1998
  • Article

    The Accidental Italian - Gina Koutros is Greek, and she didn't like Italy. But you'd never know it from her restaurant.

    There are several things you should know about the owner of Nick's Pasta Place. First, her name isn't Nick. It's Gina. And she's not Italian. Gina Koutros is Greek. It's true that she's been to Italy. She spent a week there last year. And it can...

    by Eric Lawlor on September 17, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    My hair is falling out, my nails are brittle, and my eyes have lost their luster. (Or what little luster they had.) Do you think my eating nothing but onion rings for the past four weeks might have something to do with it? Not that I care. I look awf...

    by Eric Lawlor on September 17, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Seeking bliss? There are several options available to you. There's a nice Cistercian monastery I can recommend, and I know of a really good ashram. Or, then again, if neither is your cup of tea, there's always meditation. But if you're in a hurry -- ...

    by Eric Lawlor on September 10, 1998
  • Article

    Sweet Surprise - La Sorpresa Colombiana isn't what you expect

    Only once can I remember my mother giving me advice. On the morning of my tenth birthday, she drew me to her heaving bosom -- well, I picture it heaving -- and said, "Son" -- she always called me son; I've no idea why -- "if you want to succeed in li...

    by Eric Lawlor on September 10, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Heaven with a Hole One of my fondest collegiate memories is of midnight runs for Krispy Kreme doughnuts. We'd pile into my sorority sister's old T-bird and rumble through the streets of Lexington, Kentucky, homing in on the glow of the red neon s...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on September 10, 1998
  • Article

    The Food Experience - Copeland's works hard to offer enormous variety

    At Copeland's of New Orleans, every table is emblazoned with the restaurant's name in large gold letters -- useful, I suppose, should you suffer a memory lapse and not be able to remember where you are. And the pillars here are painted a curious mott...

    by Eric Lawlor on September 3, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    That Brazilian Beat My friend Pete Selin recently explained to me that Houston is the opposite of New York City. "You know how they say New York is a great place to visit, but you wouldn't want to live there?" he asked. "Well, Houston is a great ...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on September 3, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Ducks greet you when you enter Bistro Cuisine (4925 West Alabama, 871-9722). But don't let that worry you. They're the ceramic kind and never likely to end up in the cassoulet. While Bistro Cuisine is proudly French, it's not going to convince you th...

    by Eric Lawlor on September 3, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    I don't own a car myself. I never have. But were all drive-throughs as good as Thai Racha (10085 Long Point, 464-7607), I'd seriously consider buying one. This restaurant, housed in what was once a Kentucky Fried Chicken outlet, offers what it calls ...

    by Eric Lawlor on August 27, 1998
  • Article

    Don't Worry, Be Happy - Our intrepid critic goes to the relaxed land of The Sundance Grill and gets some very good food

    We'd told The Sundance Grill to expect us at 8 o'clock, but driving down to Seabrook, we got hopelessly lost and arrived some 20 minutes late. This area having a long nautical tradition, we expected our temerity to cost us dearly. Maybe we'd be keelh...

    by Eric Lawlor on August 27, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Here's Another Bit of Texana Cookbooks have long since lived near the bottom of the literary food chain -- ironic, given their content. You're not likely to see their authors on Booknotes, discussing the significance of their tome with Ted on Nig...

    by Bob Ruggiero on August 27, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Seeing it from the street, you'd never guess that Otilia's (7710 Long Point, 681-7203) is a Mexican restaurant. That's because it's housed in what looks like a wooden chalet -- the kind you'd find in Germany's Black Forest. It takes some getting used...

    by Eric Lawlor on August 20, 1998
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