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  • Article

    Bad-News Bistro

    Is it just me, or do some waiters take the cake? Along with a male colleague, I had lunch at Bistro 224 recently and, a day later, lunched there again -- this time with a woman friend. The waiter looked reproving. "I see," he said, arching an eyebrow...

    by Eric Lawlor on April 30, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Shepherd Plaza Scuttlebutt Trammell Crow property managers are grinning ear to ear at the prospect of filling a couple of cavities in the Shepherd Plaza center near the intersection of Shepherd and Richmond. An ambitious theme park/club/rest...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on April 30, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    There are two things you need to know about the adobe pie ($6.50) at Mesa Grill (1971 West Gray, 520-8900). One, it doesn't contain any adobe, and two, all assumptions to the contrary, it isn't cooked in adobe, either. So why the name? For some reaso...

    by Eric Lawlor on April 23, 1998
  • Article

    In the Pink - El Pueblito's food more than makes up for its color scheme

    There are few good cartoons in the New Yorker anymore, but I did enjoy one that ran last month. A man and a woman are standing at the door of their apartment seeing off the last of their guests, one of whom says to the hostess: "The crab bisque, the ...

    by Eric Lawlor on April 23, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Movin' On Up on the South Side Thai food fans take note: One of Houston's best-kept secrets has moved uptown. Well, sort of. Kanomwan is still tucked away on that Twilight Zone stretch of Telephone Road between the Gulf Freeway and downtown, but ...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on April 23, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Prego's (2520 Amherst, 529-2420) always manages to intimidate me. The place is so earnest, it puts me in mind of Lenin's Tomb. A friend claims that she's never seen anyone laugh here and, come to think of it, neither have I. But I do drop in from tim...

    by Eric Lawlor on April 16, 1998
  • Article

    Avoid the Crowd - Clive's does best when it's serving the fewest people

    Elvis might be dead, but Sisyphus isn't. He lives -- at least in spirit -- in the person of a busboy at Clive's. No, he's stopped pushing a rock up a hill. The topography at Clive's rules that out. This time he's enduring a more terrifying fate: repl...

    by Eric Lawlor on April 16, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Good-bye to Rio The half-life of the radioactive restaurant location at 1512 West Alabama remains short -- as proven by the March closing of Rio de Janeiro South American Grill. On Saturday, March 28, the twentysomething brothers Allen and N...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on April 16, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Do you find it hard to concentrate in Trulucks (5919 Westheimer, 783-7270)? I do. The place suggests an art nouveau railway carriage and makes me think that it's 1920, and I'm traveling through the Balkans on the Orient Express. That woman at the nex...

    by Eric Lawlor on April 9, 1998
  • Article

    Semper Fidelis - Who needs innovation? Pasquale's stays faithful to the Italian classics.

    How do I know if I've enjoyed a restaurant? Very often, my notes tell the story. Here's a breakdown. Clean notes: awful. Sloppy punctuation: so-so. A careless scrawl: moderately good. A careless scrawl in combination with food stains...

    by Eric Lawlor on April 9, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    A Beignet by Any Other Name Coffee Call has a new name. Starting immediately, both its locations (the original in the Lamar River Oaks Center at 3260 Westheimer, 520-8291; and the other at 1818 Fountainview, 334-4414) will be known as Crescent Ci...

    by Eric Lawlor on April 9, 1998
  • Article

    Made for America - Mr. Nice Guy makes Jackie Chan more palatable than ever

    The American reissues of Jackie Chan films have met with declining box-office success since Chan burst onto the scene in 1996 with Rumble in the Bronx. With any luck, the latest Chan opus to be recut and redubbed for Americans, the year-old Mr. Nice ...

    by Andy Klein on April 2, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    The trifle I gorged on as a child was a monstrous thing, including among its list of ingredients a jelly roll, slivered almonds, peach slices, grated chocolate and lots and lots of sherry. God, how I loved it. No more, though. These days, when vision...

    by Eric Lawlor on April 2, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Dead Moose My fax machine was the bearer of sad tidings recently: an announcement from longtime restaurateur Bill Sadler, et al., of the closing of the two-year-old Moose Cafe, Sadler's high-profile experiment with Pacific Northwest smokehousing....

    by Bobette Riner on April 2, 1998
  • Article

    The Pain in Spain - At Tio Pepe, dinner nearly atones for all life's disappointments

    Tio Pepe, when we first visited, was very nice, very pleasant, and very, very empty. It was Monday, of course. A quiet night for most restaurants. Even so, the waiter seemed startled to see us. He was finishing his dinner when we arrived and was watc...

    by Eric Lawlor on April 2, 1998
  • Article

    Sol Food - Cafe Red Onion radiates sunny charm

    My favorite D.H. Lawrence heroine is Juliet, a New York woman who flees her dullard husband -- he wears a gray suit and a gray felt hat -- and moves to Italy, where she and her young son roll oranges to one another across a tiled, sun-filled patio. F...

    by Eric Lawlor on March 26, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Copycat Cookery? Last December, a Houston Press reviewer stopped by a new Chinese restaurant called Hunan Paradise (2649 Richmond, 526-1688). Kathy Biehl was taken with the fusion-style food, but noticed an uncanny resemblance to the cuisine serv...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on March 26, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    It's easy to make an onion quiche. What isn't so easy is making a good one. Actually, it's damn hard. The great stumbling block is the pastry, known to the French as pate brisee. Tricky and temperamental, it can drive even good cooks to despair. Whic...

    by Eric Lawlor on March 26, 1998
  • Article

    Cher Thing - The Zydeco Louisiana Diner doesn't stand on ceremony

    There are now two Zydeco diners -- one on Pease, the other on Travis -- and, as far as I'm concerned, that's not nearly enough. In a perfect world, there'd be dozens of Zydecos -- one of them right across the street from my house. You won't find...

    by Eric Lawlor on March 19, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Mystery surrounds the black bean soup at Cafe Miami (6114 Bissonnet, 772-3042). One person I talked to there said it contained garlic and onions. But another disagreed. What made the soup special, he insisted, was cilantro and bay leaves. I myself th...

    by Eric Lawlor on March 19, 1998
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