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  • Article

    Hot Plate

    It would be cruel to claim that the guava empanadas ($1.25) at Cafe Miami (6114 Bissonnet, 772-3042) are one of the gooiest, most glorious desserts in town without explaining how to locate them: on the English-language side of the menu, look under...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on December 31, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Sure to Peas I'm told that black-eyed peas were imported into the South aboard African slave ships, originally intended for consumption by livestock; hence the nickname "cow peas." Perhaps the same Reconstruction desperation that reduced Scarlett...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on December 31, 1998
  • Article

    Urbana Renewal - The chef has changed, but the party rolls on

    Rarely have I had so much fun at a restaurant officially designated as a "scene." Unlike its sometimes tragically hip cousins downtown, Urbana is a rollicking, often raucous feasting place for the Montrose tribes. Concrete floors, submarine-blue glas...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on December 31, 1998
  • Article

    Nacho OrdinaryTex-Mex - El Palacio offers dishes from Mexico, by way of the Continent

    The staid, storied building at 3512 Main that once housed Christie's first Houston outpost underwent a startling transformation this summer. Painted an eye-popping shade of coral and festooned with Christmas lights, the restaurant now called El Palac...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on December 24, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    A New Name To clear up any possible confusion, let it be known that the restaurant formerly known as Achille's Italian Cuisine [14120 Memorial, (281)558-0615] is now called Il Mio Ristorante Italiano, and, rest assured, it's still under the guida...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on December 24, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Houston's most basic food unit has got to be the Antone's poor boy. These bullet-shaped subs, wrapped in distinctive color-coded paper, can be found in briefcases and backpacks all over town, from boardrooms to ball games to the beach. Antone's assem...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on December 24, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    What to order when you don't know what you want? Try the $8 Mediterranean salad plate at the Daily Review Cafe (3412 West Lamar, 520-9217). The Middle East-inspired medley caroms from hot to cold, sweet to spicy and creamy to crunchy, all on the sam...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on December 17, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Dacapo's Downfall The lady did protest too much: Despite co-owner Leticia Guzman Graham's repeated claims to the contrary this summer, it now appears that Dacapo's Cafe on the Parkway truly was in trouble. Recently-weds Leticia and Kirk Graham bo...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on December 17, 1998
  • Article

    Those Boys from Brazil - Forget your arteries. Surrender to the Samba Cafe.

    I last visited Brazil Brasilero in August and loved it. It was a simple storefront then, tucked in a frankly ugly strip center at the corner of Kirkwood and Briar Forest. The restaurant offered a quirky jumble of Brazilian foodstuffs, Portuguese lang...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on December 17, 1998
  • Article

    The Hogg Sisters

    What's the difference between postmodern industrial chic and Salvation Army shoddy? After several visits to the Palace Cafe and its companion, the Hogg Grill, side by side in the fashionable Hogg Palace lofts downtown, I'm still wondering. Cinda...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on December 10, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    "I'm in the mood for something light but really tasty," I told the girl behind the counter at Paulie's (1834 Westheimer, 807-7271). "Oh, then you want the shrimp BLT," she chirped, without a moment's hesitation. How right she was. Paulie's version of...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on December 10, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Head for Business Pundits proclaimed the death of handbrewed beers in Houston prematurely, it would appear; at least according to Scott and Lauri Littlewood, owners of The Bank Draft in the Village (2424 Dunstan, 522-6258). Not only are the Littl...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on December 10, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Sometimes I get a low-down and dirty craving for liver and onions, and nothing else will do. Since the aroma of frying liver offends the delicate sensibilities of my family, I sneak out alone to satisfy my shameful urge at the nearest Luby's Cafeteri...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on December 3, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    The Swiss Connection Some Texans traveling in Switzerland last month were astonished to see a bold red sign announcing a steak house named Churrasco, as out of place on its bustling thoroughfare in Lucerne as a longhorn steer. Yep, there it was, ...

    on December 3, 1998
  • Article

    Schmatz Move - A restaurant aims to conquerHouston with Austrian open-faced sandwiches

    Lately, a lot of good foods have appeared on the Houston restaurant scene in delectable little packages. It started with hand-rolled bouquets of sushi; then burritos blossomed into wraps; and now Spanish tapas are center stage in the eye-candy compet...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on December 3, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Heavenly hors d'oeuvre for the holidays: Chef Deanna Rund makes a luscious goat cheese and pesto terrine ($5.25) at the Cosmos Cafe (69 Heights Boulevard, 802-2144). Between three generous slabs of silky-smooth chevre, she slathers layers of holly...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on November 26, 1998
  • Article

    Island Italian - Luigi's lights up the Strand

    Over a year ago, my husband told me he'd discovered a great new Italian restaurant in Galveston, right on the Strand. It sounded unlikely to me. I admit, what first flashed through my mind was an image of a struggling, mom-and-pop spaghetti joint, co...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on November 26, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    So That's How Rumors Get Started Houston's food underground was recently abuzz with fear: Rumor had it that the legendary Cafe Annie (1728 Post Oak Boulevard, 840-1111) had closed. About a month ago, the trademark blue awning mysteriously disappe...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on November 26, 1998
  • Article

    Bayou Moderne - With Gregory's, chef Greg Webb has the restaurant he deserves.

    Chef Greg Webb has been a player in the Houston restaurant scene for many years, but until now, his influence has been more felt than seen. Webb has worked in some of the hottest kitchens in town: at the Sierra Grill with Robert McGrath, in Tony Vall...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on November 19, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Dosvedanya Owner Yakov Shteyman of Yakov's Deli is hopping mad at his landlord and his neighbors in the strip shopping center at 3925 Richmond. "They are jealous of my place; I have so many customers," he says. "The landlord doubled my rent and t...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on November 19, 1998
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Let the Food of El Sazon de Cuba Put You in a Miami State of Mind Let the Food of El Sazon de Cuba Put You in a Miami State of Mind

Miami, baby. Miami. Whenever he said the name of the city, he got a wistful look in his eyes, as if he were actually picturing walking along the beach in the… More >>

Bradley's Fine Diner Is Bradley Ogden's Chance to Get Comfy, for Better or Worse Bradley's Fine Diner Is Bradley Ogden's Chance to Get Comfy, for Better or Worse

"Yankee pot roast" is exactly what you might expect from a place calling itself a "fine diner." The tender beef roast is topped with buttery, crunchy bread crumbs and surrounded… More >>

60 Degrees Mastercrafted Is All About Meat, But It's the Seafood that Caught Our Fancy 60 Degrees Mastercrafted Is All About Meat, But It's the Seafood that Caught Our Fancy

In a sea of specials and featured dishes and staff favorites, the catch of the day stood out: a simple fillet of red snapper atop a bed of eggplant and… More >>

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